First of all, we need to know the history, in that did it work fine until it started slipping and also started being hard to shif? Did you really mean it was hard to shif, or do you really mean there is too just much clutch free play? And what is the clutch free play really? Or did the slipping and need for pedal to the floor happen at different times?
But assiming they both happened at the same time, a bad clutch cable can explain both symptions. It can not only stretch, but then bind as well, requiring not only a longer push, but never releasing fully.
A warped clutch disk can also cause similar problems.
I also had a 5 speed where the brash bushing for the clutch throwout rod (the rod runs through the whole transmission input shaft), was binding and caused grear grinding.
So you need to be more specific. But the clutch cable is cheap and easy to try first.
The other side of the clutch cable goes to a lever that pushes in on a throw out brearing. This lever or the sliding throw out bearing can be binding. This all happens in the very end of the transmission tail piece, the furthest from the engine.
That is because this throw out bearing pushes on a rod that runs down the whole length of the transmission input shaft.
This rod can also bind.
So you can take the tailpiece off, check the throwout bearing, but also take this 18" long rod out. n If it has blue heat marks, then you know it was binding and needs to be greased.
You can to this without taking the tranny out of car.The other side of the clutch cable goes to a lever that pushes in on a throw out brearing. This lever or the sliding throw out bearing can be binding. This all happens in the very end of the transmission tail piece, the furthest from the engine. That is because this throw out bearing pushes on a rod that runs down the whole length of the transmission input shaft. This rod can also bind. So you can take the tailpiece off, check the throwout bearing, but also take this 18" long rod out. n If it has blue heat marks, then you know it was binding and needs to be greased. You can to this without taking the tranny out of car.
When working on the Golf tranny, it also helps to use a jackstand, take the front driver wheel off, and you can also take off the tranny mount to lower it, if you have a jack under the engine to control how much it drops.
There are 2 ways to get at the throwout bearing.
One is to remove the whole tailpiece I described.
But the actual procedure I believe only requires removing a round steel cover plate within the tailpiece. I don't typically do that, because I believe you need to buy a new cover because it gets distorted upon removal. But it is only a couple of bucks. When working on the Golf tranny, it also helps to use a jackstand, take the front driver wheel off, and you can also take off the tranny mount to lower it, if you have a jack under the engine to control how much it drops.
There are 2 ways to get at the throwout bearing. One is to remove the whole tailpiece I described. But the actual procedure I believe only requires removing a round steel cover plate within the tailpiece. I don't typically do that, because I believe you need to buy a new cover because it gets distorted upon removal. But it is only a couple of bucks.
Answers & Comments
All sorts of possibilities.
First of all, we need to know the history, in that did it work fine until it started slipping and also started being hard to shif?
Did you really mean it was hard to shif, or do you really mean there is too just much clutch free play?
And what is the clutch free play really?
Or did the slipping and need for pedal to the floor happen at different times?
But assiming they both happened at the same time, a bad clutch cable can explain both symptions. It can not only stretch, but then bind as well, requiring not only a longer push, but never releasing fully.
A warped clutch disk can also cause similar problems.
I also had a 5 speed where the brash bushing for the clutch throwout rod (the rod runs through the whole transmission input shaft), was binding and caused grear grinding.
So you need to be more specific. But the clutch cable is cheap and easy to try first.
The other side of the clutch cable goes to a lever that pushes in on a throw out brearing.
This lever or the sliding throw out bearing can be binding.
This all happens in the very end of the transmission tail piece, the furthest from the engine.
That is because this throw out bearing pushes on a rod that runs down the whole length of the transmission input shaft.
This rod can also bind.
So you can take the tailpiece off, check the throwout bearing, but also take this 18" long rod out. n If it has blue heat marks, then you know it was binding and needs to be greased.
You can to this without taking the tranny out of car.
When working on the Golf tranny, it also helps to use a jackstand, take the front driver wheel off, and you can also take off the tranny mount to lower it, if you have a jack under the engine to control how much it drops.
There are 2 ways to get at the throwout bearing.
One is to remove the whole tailpiece I described.
But the actual procedure I believe only requires removing a round steel cover plate within the tailpiece.
I don't typically do that, because I believe you need to buy a new cover because it gets distorted upon removal. But it is only a couple of bucks.