G10 or G13 engine, must we guess? p0141 P0303 and no others, even driven far>? does engine run bad? i cant hear it or drive it or feel that...so, must be said.
i presume your pushed reset on the scan tool and they come back?
P 303 is #3 misfiring misfire is not just spark, sorry , not. 1: spark bad #3 (seems not, if gaps correct) 2: injections bad Just #3 (weak or too much) 3: bad cylinder #3 (low compression, (a tool cheap does that) i say bingo this)
P0141 heater failure. front sensor. or its wires cut or melted from 2000Deg F exhaust pipe damage? or corroded pins to it, some cars have a relay on that sensor. the heater dead makes the o2 dead at low rpm and will cause all cylinders to run rich, dead o2. not just one. (ever) my guess engine has at least 2 problems bad wiring to B1S2 o2 sensor. rear sensor. and bad compression on #3
1: new wire set. 2: new spark plugs 3: gaped to spec, or just let NGK factory guess wrong (they dont set it , sorry, you must) the hood sticker (EPA) tells you GAP 4: new injectors or just swapped, front to rear.etc. you replaced all injectors?
id have done a compression test first ever set valve lash ever 60k miles as the FSM directs you? (old engines, we do this first) why well its old. right?> and id bet not ever fully serviced , right?)
150psi min, pressure W.O.T. at sea-level if over 1000ft altitude say so. (have correction tables i do) i can do air craft pilots math, easy.
it's and old car, we check compression on all old , engines the run bad, first. not throw tons of cash at it. if the engine is bad why spend cash on a dead car. most cars this old we RIP it, due to repairs exceed value of car.
the heater wire are cut/melted. P0131 to 134 can set with misfire.
the rear 02 (P0141) does not run fueling its just there for CAT testing an no other reasons so ignore it for now, after all the P042x cat tests are useless , misfiring,
fix P0303, and for sure if not P030x (any Po30x codes that pop, driving far is huge other clue.)
P0303 means, in pure English, the power during combustion on #3 is weak it only means that.
the ECU knows this by measure crank VELOCITIES. compression at spec spark at spec. and fueling at spec.
1,2,3. in that order.....
seen many or our forum (10 years deep) spend $500 more on parts, then find flat compression on one cylinder (dead) then find its a $1500 fix for a new engine. why not do the compression test first.? as a tech (now retired), we see the engine shake hard, with one cylinder dead, i can't do that here. and matters. all things i cant see here, matter. and me not driving it, why ask the blind, no?
old cars cylinders do go dead we look first. then leap.if at all. ($$$ economics) we have lots of Geo's parked in a barn in USA>(or in the crusher,) with dead engines or dead A/t trans. It's easy to go broke doing tests in the WRONG ORDER, sure is.
btw just did one my self. my hands, only _machine shop on valves and crank. $500 for new engine, (core plus parts and machine work) $ new trans, $300 I did it, cost of kit , zero labor costs) on one M/t $125 total. so costs in a real shop are vastly more than sweat equity.
the tool (Compr) is $20 and takes me 1hr labor, seems more folks are forums are scared of cheap tools why? we learned in 10th grade how to...
Answers & Comments
G10 or G13 engine, must we guess?
p0141
P0303
and no others, even driven far>? does engine run bad?
i cant hear it or drive it or feel that...so, must be said.
i presume your pushed reset on the scan tool and they come back?
P 303 is #3 misfiring
misfire is not just spark, sorry , not.
1: spark bad #3 (seems not, if gaps correct)
2: injections bad Just #3 (weak or too much)
3: bad cylinder #3 (low compression, (a tool cheap does that) i say bingo this)
P0141 heater failure. front sensor.
or its wires cut or melted from 2000Deg F exhaust pipe damage?
or corroded pins to it, some cars have a relay on that sensor.
the heater dead makes the o2 dead at low rpm
and will cause all cylinders to run rich, dead o2.
not just one. (ever)
my guess engine has at least 2 problems
bad wiring to B1S2 o2 sensor. rear sensor.
and bad compression on #3
1: new wire set.
2: new spark plugs
3: gaped to spec, or just let NGK factory guess wrong (they dont set it , sorry, you must)
the hood sticker (EPA) tells you GAP
4: new injectors or just swapped, front to rear.etc.
you replaced all injectors?
id have done a compression test first
ever set valve lash ever 60k miles as the FSM directs you? (old engines, we do this first)
why well its old. right?> and id bet not ever fully serviced , right?)
150psi min, pressure W.O.T. at sea-level
if over 1000ft altitude say so. (have correction tables i do)
i can do air craft pilots math, easy.
it's and old car, we check compression on all old , engines the run bad, first.
not throw tons of cash at it.
if the engine is bad why spend cash on a dead car.
most cars this old we RIP it, due to repairs exceed value of car.
the EFI can NOT RUN , dead cylinders, no way.
G10
Trouble Code: P0141 (1.0L L3 VIN 6 Std)
HO2S-12 (Bank 1 Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction
G13
same
the heater wire are cut/melted.
P0131 to 134 can set with misfire.
the rear 02 (P0141) does not run fueling
its just there for CAT testing
an no other reasons
so ignore it for now, after all the P042x cat tests are useless , misfiring,
fix P0303, and for sure if not
P030x (any Po30x codes that pop, driving far
is huge other clue.)
P0303 means, in pure English,
the power during combustion on #3 is weak
it only means that.
the ECU knows this by measure crank VELOCITIES.
compression at spec
spark at spec.
and fueling at spec.
1,2,3. in that order.....
seen many or our forum (10 years deep)
spend $500 more on parts, then find flat compression on one cylinder (dead)
then find its a $1500 fix for a new engine.
why not do the compression test first.?
as a tech (now retired), we see the engine shake hard, with one cylinder dead, i can't do that here.
and matters. all things i cant see here, matter.
and me not driving it, why ask the blind, no?
old cars cylinders do go dead
we look first. then leap.if at all. ($$$ economics)
we have lots of Geo's parked in a barn in USA>(or in the crusher,)
with dead engines or dead A/t trans.
It's easy to go broke doing tests in the WRONG ORDER, sure is.
btw just did one my self.
my hands, only _machine shop on valves and crank.
$500 for new engine, (core plus parts and machine work)
$ new trans, $300 I did it, cost of kit , zero labor costs) on one M/t $125 total.
so costs in a real shop are vastly more than
sweat equity.
the tool (Compr) is $20
and takes me 1hr labor,
seems more folks are forums are scared of cheap tools
why?
we learned in 10th grade how to...
Chevy Prizm 1998 2002 Factory Service Workshop repair manual download
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