Sounds like the engine computer is not powering up. The pcm power relay is very prone to cause this. In your under hood fuse panel, find the pcm relay. Mark it and swap it with the trailer tow relay. The best thing to do is go ahead and replace it with a new relay. You can pick these up at any parts store. This usually takes care of this problem. Try this out and let me know if it takes care of your problem.
The problem is the PATS system in the Navigator has been tripped. It needs to be reset (dealer only) or rendered inert.
There is a way. You make the ignition code reader think the smart key is in the ignition at all times. This keeps the system from arming, and allows the fuel injection system to function normally.
Go get 2 non transponder keys cut at the hardware store for 3 bucks each.Get a universal bypass module (key-in-a-box style) at www.REMOTESTARTCENTRAL.com for 25.00.
Then wrap the coil around the key cylinder, secured in place with hot-glue. Connect the status input wire to chassis ground and the positive to ignition...no more transponder key required. No Smart Key security issues.
The total cost on this is substantially less than what a dealership would charge to replace and reprogram keys all the time.
This is what will work instead of the dealerships profit margin.
The problem is the PATS system in the Navigator has been tripped. It needs to be reset (dealer only) or rendered inert.
There is a way. You make the ignition code reader think the smart key is in the ignition at all times. This keeps the system from arming, and allows the fuel injection system to function normally.
Go get 2 non transponder keys cut at the hardware store for 3 bucks each.Get a universal bypass module (key-in-a-box style) at www.REMOTESTARTCENTRAL.com for 25.00.
Then wrap the coil around the key cylinder, secured in place with hot-glue. Connect the status input wire to chassis ground and the positive to ignition...no more transponder key required. No Smart Key security issues.
The total cost on this is substantially less than what a dealership would charge to replace and reprogram keys all the time.
This is what will work instead of the dealerships profit margin.
It can be the anti-theft system or the starter, both of which are common failures. To identify if it is not the theft system, watch the THEFT lamp on the instrument cluster when the problem is occuring. If the THEFT lamp is blinking, it entails the anti-theft has disabled the starter. Also, make sure the THEFT lamp is working by, turning the ignition on and wathcing for the lamp to breifly come on. If the THEFT lamp does not blink, the starting system will need further electrical diagnosis to confirm a starter, if the problem is too intermitent, and the vehicle has higher milage with no history of a starter change, I would suggest replacing the starter.
If the THEFT lamp blinks, than you should first try a new ignition key, if that does not cure the problem, the vehicle should go down to a local dealer where the anti-theft system can be reprogrammed, or diagnosed if necessary.
Answers & Comments
Sounds like the engine computer is not powering up. The pcm power relay is very prone to cause this. In your under hood fuse panel, find the pcm relay. Mark it and swap it with the trailer tow relay. The best thing to do is go ahead and replace it with a new relay. You can pick these up at any parts store. This usually takes care of this problem.
Try this out and let me know if it takes care of your problem.
The problem is the PATS system in the Navigator has been tripped. It needs to be reset (dealer only) or rendered inert.
There is a way. You make the ignition code reader think the smart key is in the ignition at all times. This keeps the system from arming, and allows the fuel injection system to function normally.
Go get 2 non transponder keys cut at the hardware store for 3 bucks each.Get a universal bypass module (key-in-a-box style) at www.REMOTESTARTCENTRAL.com for 25.00.
Then wrap the coil around the key cylinder, secured in place with hot-glue. Connect the status input wire to chassis ground and the positive to ignition...no more transponder key required. No Smart Key security issues.
The total cost on this is substantially less than what a dealership would charge to replace and reprogram keys all the time.
This is what will work instead of the dealerships profit margin.
It can be the anti-theft system or the starter, both of which are common failures. To identify if it is not the theft system, watch the THEFT lamp on the instrument cluster when the problem is occuring. If the THEFT lamp is blinking, it entails the anti-theft has disabled the starter. Also, make sure the THEFT lamp is working by, turning the ignition on and wathcing for the lamp to breifly come on. If the THEFT lamp does not blink, the starting system will need further electrical diagnosis to confirm a starter, if the problem is too intermitent, and the vehicle has higher milage with no history of a starter change, I would suggest replacing the starter.
If the THEFT lamp blinks, than you should first try a new ignition key, if that does not cure the problem, the vehicle should go down to a local dealer where the anti-theft system can be reprogrammed, or diagnosed if necessary.
I hope helps with this.