A voltmeter needs only microamps but such a tiny amount of current hardly qualifies as power. A backfeed because of leakage from something will register a voltage, especially with a digital meter but I wager there wouldn't be enough current to light a bulb - which is why I mostly use a testlamp for such checks.
Most modern ignition/engine management systems use more than one supply and internal leakage between them might be normal or might be a fault. Reference to a wiring diagram might help. Certainly if both fuse terminals have real power - that wouldn't be normal.
That isn't good news at all - you need a wiring diagram to try and analyse the most likely source(s) of the fault.That isn't good news at all - you need a wiring diagram to try and analyse the most likely source(s) of the fault.
I made some progress. There's a light blue wire under the right side cover . I disconnected it , put my test light on it and then the neutral light lit up so I pressed the start button and it started . I got a wiring diagram and found out the blue wire goes to the neutral switch . Now I just have to figure out if there's some problem is with the neutral switchI made some progress. There's a light blue wire under the right side cover . I disconnected it , put my test light on it and then the neutral light lit up so I pressed the start button and it started . I got a wiring diagram and found out the blue wire goes to the neutral switch . Now I just have to figure out if there's some problem is with the neutral switch
Answers & Comments
I am guessing you checked that with a voltmeter?
A voltmeter needs only microamps but such a tiny amount of current hardly qualifies as power. A backfeed because of leakage from something will register a voltage, especially with a digital meter but I wager there wouldn't be enough current to light a bulb - which is why I mostly use a testlamp for such checks.
Most modern ignition/engine management systems use more than one supply and internal leakage between them might be normal or might be a fault. Reference to a wiring diagram might help. Certainly if both fuse terminals have real power - that wouldn't be normal.
That isn't good news at all - you need a wiring diagram to try and analyse the most likely source(s) of the fault.
I made some progress. There's a light blue wire under the right side cover . I disconnected it , put my test light on it and then the neutral light lit up so I pressed the start button and it started . I got a wiring diagram and found out the blue wire goes to the neutral switch . Now I just have to figure out if there's some problem is with the neutral switch
Buy a clymer rpair manual. Cud b worn coil or module. Sparkplug cables or boot cud b worn tu..cant tell from outside