2004 chevy impala ac compressor is kicked in and full of freon and will not get cold but when the ac compressor starts to make a rattling noise it starts to get cold then it will stop getting cold when the rattling in compressor stops.does not make sence to me would this mean the compressor is bad and also where is the orifice located in line.need help cant figure problem out but think it is compressor but clutch kicks in and turns free but wont blow cold air unless the ratling noise is being made from compressor now it has completely stoped getting cold any info would help thank you
Cars & Trucks - Chevrolet - Impala - 2004 Chevrolet Impala
Answers & Comments
Sounds like to me the rattling noise is the compressor kicking on and then it kicks off most compressors cycle this way they turn on and you will hear the rattling sound then it will cycle off. If your clutch engages and you dont hear the rattling sound then I would say yes it could be your compressor is bad or going bad But if every time your clutch engages and you hear the rattling sound every time then it would seem your compressor is working. If your clutch is no longer engaging then it could be you lack freon or the cycling switch has gone bad this switch most the time is located on the dryer or accumilator there should be a cycling switch mounted there if it has two wires only on the harness you can bypass the switch to see if thats where the problem is bad disconect the wire harness and jumper the wires together if the compressor kicks in replace the switch. Make sure you have freon in the system and it didnt leak out also dont try to replace the orfice tube if you are not trained to do so A/C systems should only be serviced by qualified technicians you could injure your self also do harm to your system this system is under high pressure and needs to be evacuated before repairs can be made after the repairs are made and the system sealed you will need to vacume the system and then recharge it if you dont vacume the system you will damage the compressor if you have doubts take it to a qualified repair shop and have it serviced i hope this helps you some.
with the freon gauge on line and engine running and the compressor working you could watch the gauge flutter back and forth and at idle the car would get cold but give it gas and the air would start to get warm again so let it idle and a few minutes it would rattle then start getting cold agian
Sounds like it is clicking in and out which meens its eather low on freon or maybe a bad low pressure switch ? Expansion valve maybe clogged (could be more but too hard to get into?) you do not have orifis tube...hope this helped you?
the clutch is staying engaged the whole time its doing this
Compressors that rattle are bad.. the orfice tube is in the high side line and you replace the line and the reciever dryer together as an assembly and the hose set costs about $110. the compressor has blown ( it still might work some as it has 6 pistons and not all of them are broken ( maybe)) As it blew it'd send the broken parts straight to the condenser( the raditor infront of the coolant raditor) and it''ll need to be replaced also as theirs no good way to get the broken parts out of the condenser. They cost a little over $100. Rebuilt compressors are no bargain as the failure rate is so high that most shops don't sell them anymore. The rules on warrentees are real strick as you do the work poorly or half way theyu will not pay you ( give you another compressor) if you skipped anything. Most of the time the condenser and the orfice recieverd dryer and the line set all have to be on the smae reciept as the compressor if their going to pay out any warrentee. If in doubt of you skills and tools. ( Decompression pump, gauges, freaon scales, recovery system ) it's best to leave this work to the pros.
http://cds.activant.com/C2C/C01/69/175/5..." />This is the low pressure switch that cycles the compressor if the freon pressure gets too low. If the pressuse gets low for more than one reason. The system is clogged and the high side pressure goes too high and the overpressure freon goes out the over pressure valve in the back of the compressor. The resulting loss of freon makes the low side go too low. Crossing this switch will make the compressor stay on no matter what the pressure is no matter if it has enough freon. If the compressor makes noise it's bad. (Period) It has valves and pistons in it and the pistons have rings( seals) and it htey make noise their not sealing and doing thier thing. ( Common problem). This switch has a screw right between the pins inside the electrical connection so the switch can be adjusted. (Aftermarket swiches do some orginal equipmwent don't). You have not mentioned the freon pressure so I think you going about this work blind. The gauges should read less then 49 Lbs. at idel and Reved up not less than 25 lower than 25 the switch involed should shut the compressor off. once the compressor is offf the pressure will go back up and the compressor will come back on. with low low side pressure the freaon will overcool the evaporator and it'll fresse up and not cool. if it has moisture in the freon system this moisture will also freeze ( inside the compressor ) and blow it. thats why you have to decompress ( evacuate the sytem to remove everything in the system before yu add the freaon and any oil charge needed to replace oil removed when changing parts. Legally your not supposed to remove freon to the air as it's a dangerouse poluatant, therefore you need a recovery system. ( sucks all the freon out ( and anything eles under a vacum)) and puts it in a tank to be recovered.
with old pump on car low side pressure at ide was between 49-48 lbs and with ratllle would stay there and rev up it would drop to 27 lbs and when the ratlle woud stop pressure on low side would go in the red and no cold air but compressor was still like trying to cycle because you could watch the gauge on low side fluctiate back and fourth sound i vacummed and removed old compressor and also high side pressure switch and replaced both and vacummed again and added freon and raised low side pressure at idle to 49lbs and reved up not less the 27lbs and the air works completely fine now the fault more or less lied in the compressor but i thought best bet was to change both so now the air is working fine at idle and reved up.took the old pump apart to look into it annd it has seven pistons and you could see a pretty good wear in 3 of them and also were loose fitting in the cylinder and others were snug in the cylinders so make long story short was a worn and faulty ac compressor.but none the less problem is solved and thanks you all for the info to the problem also almost forgot i did add one can of oil the system