749 stalling It was the dealers demo bike, and had 1,000 miles on it, and they did the 1st service on it the day I picked it up. Runs really well except for one thing: It can sit and idle for hours without stalling, but many times, at the very instant you crack the throttle, it stalls. Does not matter if the clutch is in while in gear, or out while in neutral. Does not matter if you crack it ever so slowly, or give it a big blip. The warmer the bike, the more likely it is to happen. At 205 deg, it's about 1 out of 3 stop lights or stop signs when it dies. At 180 deg, its more like 1 in 10. My idle speed looks to be about 1200, and it idles smooth and the speed is constant. When I start the bike cold, I don't really need the fast idle to keep it running. I have seen a similar post where 2 people say that theirs was fixed by adjusting the idle speed from 1000 up to 1100 (I don't think I need that) and by having the "Cams degreed". I don't really know what that means, but I am guessing it means changing the timing of the cam shafts, so that the valves start opening sooner, or later, relative to TDC. Seems like a bad thing to do, as the cam timing would seem to be set for good power at higher RPMs, and moving it to cover up some other problem wouldn't be the right answer. My guess would be that when I crack the throttle, air flow is increased, but the fuel injection is too slow to keep up with it, and the lean mixture is kiling me. Any opinions on why this is happening? Or about the merits of cams timing changes? Experiences and fixes? thanks
You dealer should be able to fix this, probably under warrenty. I believe it's a TPS setting change. I "cured" mine by raising the idle, but it's gotten way better with miles. 15k now and it rarely stalls. These motors are pretty tight. Also, if I may, you still need to use the fast idle lever when cold starting...the slightly increased revs gets oil to the top end sooner, thus saving wear and tear on your valvetrain.
Answers & Comments
You dealer should be able to fix this, probably under warrenty. I believe it's a TPS setting change. I "cured" mine by raising the idle, but it's gotten way better with miles. 15k now and it rarely stalls. These motors are pretty tight. Also, if I may, you still need to use the fast idle lever when cold starting...the slightly increased revs gets oil to the top end sooner, thus saving wear and tear on your valvetrain.