It sounds like you are saying you have 2 subs and each sub is connected to its own channel on the amp. With 4 ohm speakers this would give you a 4 ohm load on each amplifier. If you connected both to the same channel you would have speaker impedance divided by number of speakers = 4/2=2 ohms seen by that channel. If you run bridged, each amp sees half of the impedance of the speakers, so you could only run 1 of your subs because the amps would see 2 ohms each.

Since you are running 2 subs, one in each channel, the amp must be set for stereo (or more properly, 2 channel) operation. Do not use it in bridged mode and make sure your switches are set correctly.

I am not familiar with that amp in particular so I can only provide general suggestions. Does the mfr recommend a cooling fan on the amp? Have you used an ohm meter to check for shorts to the chassis? Sometimes a wire gets pinched or punctured or a strand of wire is hanging loose and touching something it shouldn't. Have you used an ohmmeter to verify that at the amplifier end of your speaker wires you measure 4 ohms (+/- 1 ohm or so)?

Almost, if not all of the current car amps use MOSFET transistors which I have found to be subject to leakage which leads very quickly to heat related failures. Usually that leakage grows over time, but it can happen even in a new amp or even with new transistors. After making sure that everything is wired correctly and the switches are correct and there are no shorts and no fan is required beyond what may be built in, if you still have the heat and shutdown problem the amp requires service.




It sounds like you are saying you have 2 subs and each sub is connected to its own channel on the amp. With 4 ohm speakers this would give you a 4 ohm load on each amplifier. If you connected both to the same channel you would have speaker impedance divided by number of speakers = 4/2=2 ohms seen by that channel. If you run bridged, each amp sees half of the impedance of the speakers, so you could only run 1 of your subs because the amps would see 2 ohms each.

Since you are running 2 subs, one in each channel, the amp must be set for stereo (or more properly, 2 channel) operation. Do not use it in bridged mode and make sure your switches are set correctly.

I am not familiar with that amp in particular so I can only provide general suggestions. Does the mfr recommend a cooling fan on the amp? Have you used an ohm meter to check for shorts to the chassis? Sometimes a wire gets pinched or punctured or a strand of wire is hanging loose and touching something it shouldn't. Have you used an ohmmeter to verify that at the amplifier end of your speaker wires you measure 4 ohms (+/- 1 ohm or so)?

Almost, if not all of the current car amps use MOSFET transistors which I have found to be subject to leakage which leads very quickly to heat related failures. Usually that leakage grows over time, but it can happen even in a new amp or even with new transistors. After making sure that everything is wired correctly and the switches are correct and there are no shorts and no fan is required beyond what may be built in, if you still have the heat and shutdown problem the amp requires service.