Back of Fridge icing up - Miele KFN8762SDED
Hi Philtac please see your comments below. Hi Philtac, I tried out your instructions but couldn't find the coil you were going on about. I have attached a picture, could you please point out where the coil is stiuated and any other relevant parts. Thanking you in advance. Regards Larry Comment by Philtac, posted on May 18, 2008 Ok. UNPLUG the refrigeator. Take the shelves out of the freezer. Remove the back cover panel. If the coil is iced up. you can use a hair drier to though ice out. Be careful not to leave hair drier in one place to long the heat could warp the plastic in your liner move it around. Next when the coil is all clear look at the top of the coil there is a little 2 wire component that is straped to the coil. This is the thermination stat. when the coil is cold the bimetalic switch is closed this allows the heater to energise and defrost the coil. It opens when the temp at that spot reaches a set temp. turning off the heater. Then the defrost timer on the board finishes timing out and brings the compressor back on to start another cycle. unclip it from the coil look at it and make sure it's sealed around the top. you can sometimes submerg it in ice water and you will hear it click. if it looks good and it clicks its more than likely good.
At the bottom of the coil is usually a little metal plate secured by 2 screws. Behind this plate is a glass heater tube. there is a wire into each side connected by a spade terminal. look at the heater see if you can see if it is broke inside sometimes the glass is black looking and hard to see through. If it falls apart in you hands it's bad.
If both these components are ok. Then your problem is in the electronic board mounted under a meatl plate on the back of the refrigerator. I usually order the boards online from the manufacture. They usually run $185.00 or so. Hopefully your problem is the termination stat or the heater. If you find one component bad replace both. The other could have been damaged in the failure. Hope this helps
At the bottom of the coil is usually a little metal plate secured by 2 screws. Behind this plate is a glass heater tube. there is a wire into each side connected by a spade terminal. look at the heater see if you can see if it is broke inside sometimes the glass is black looking and hard to see through. If it falls apart in you hands it's bad.
If both these components are ok. Then your problem is in the electronic board mounted under a meatl plate on the back of the refrigerator. I usually order the boards online from the manufacture. They usually run $185.00 or so. Hopefully your problem is the termination stat or the heater. If you find one component bad replace both. The other could have been damaged in the failure. Hope this helps
Refrigerators - Miele - KFN8762SDED Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
Answers & Comments
Perfect:
"If you started troubleshooting with a specific expert you should contact the expert by using ask me button, here is the expert list : Find Experts"
OR
try this http://www.fixya.com/users/expert-name-goes-here
You can also use an equivanent characteristic thermostat. If manufacturer's thermostat cannot be found, no proble to use another same range that can be well fitted in its positition to replace.
"If its the thermostat, are you talking about the defrost thermostat i.e. the bi metallic strip. If this is the case does this need to be purchased from the manufacturer (Miele) or can it be purchased elsewhere."
The problem I see is that there are things blocking the back of the freezer and what happens is all of the cold air from the freon is forced back into the freon and the freon will release the cold where ever it can. Try re-arraigning the inside of your freezer/fridge. If you have any questions Ask me and I will continue troubleshooting.
RCF
Just click below for spare parts;
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_4_1.asp
Hope this may help;
Regards,
VOTIT
Defected DEFROST HEATER can cause frost build up on the panel at the back of the freezer,and freezer stop cooling and ice frozen on unit so air could not flow to refrigerator side.Water will coming out caused of unbalanced freezing,and causing the flooding of water in the floor. You must change this defroster heater assembly so it will works normal again..
Heavy Frost on the Coils
This is good! This indicates a defrosting system failure which is a simple control problem. It also means that the sealed system (compressor, evaporator coil, and all associated tubing) is fine as wine in summertime. Defrost system problems are easy fixes that anyone with a pulse can do with maybe just a little help from their friends. The problem will either be the defrost timer (or Adaptive Defrost Control board, if so equipped), the defrost thermostat, or the defrost heater. To locate these parts in your fridge, check out these cool, interactive parts diagrams.
Just click below for more information;
There are 44 'Do-It-Yourselfer' stories about installing this part
Hope this may help you;
Regards,
VOTIT
Back of fridge icing up is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils back of fridge icing up which is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the back walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
- The defrost timer
- The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
- The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problemCondenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush . You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
The two that i have mentioned before the other is the timer.
The timer is located in the fridge side around the controls or at the back of the fridge around the compressor.
There is a knob that sticks out the timer that you can turn using a screwdriver.
By slowly turning this you can manually put the fridge in the defrost cycle.
If there is a great amount of ice build up it will take awhile to see this start to defrost.
Here is a picture of the timer.
defrost heater and thermostat.
It seems to be the problem is the freon like almost problems of freezing or cooling device. look for an expert technician that could add up a freon.
cheers
CHARCOIS
Remove ur rear side panel of ur refrigerator ...from there u ll see the motor where the shaft connected to the fan...inside motor oly a coil ll present..if ur coil burnout means...remove ur motor and replace the coil based on the power of motor..
Can be bought elsewhere.
thanks
rate the solution.
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
If it still
does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant
level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified
appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
From your picture i see that the condennsor coil is underneath the copper tubing. the tubing with the bulge is the high side of system it also has an expansion orifice inside it.the smaller tubing is the low side if there is a freeze up. and there are no obstructions of airflow over coil the thermo coupler that senses temp is faulty. hope this helps.
the thermo coupler is the very thin copper tube that runs close to the condenssor
Generally when you have freezing up as you have described it means there could be a freon leak,the long detailed discription he gave told you nothing but a lot of gibberish that no one would understand check the unit for a freon leak
if you see a green area on any of the copper tubing you will find you have a leak its pretty simple to look for and if the copper has turned green anywhere then youve located the problem
What to do.where to do. and.how to do.for all this problems.
the link will help you.
http://www.fridgedoctor.com
pls do rate the solution
thanks.
regards.
fixya expert team
you are very correct.you are following the right direction.thanks.
both the options you are talking are applicable.you can get from anywhere you want.
If you started troubleshooting with a specific expert you should contact the expert by using ask me button, here is the expert list : Find Experts
To buy parts for your fridge type full model number here.
Regarding your specific problem, if it is freezing at the BACK of the fridge it means that you have a defrost problem.
When this happens it is because either the evaporator fan or the thermostat are not working.
HI,
Please click on the below link.Once you ope that link you will see a diagram for the Freezer on bottom model.Just scroll your mouse on that diagram to get detailed info. about the parts and were they are.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_3.asp
Evaporator coils are always located in the freezer section,either behind back wall or under freezer floor.
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Or error behind the cooling over there!
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