GENSET ALL PROBLEM FIXES - 2 PARTS



My answer:



Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers
are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and
just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR
without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)



And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!



I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?



If you bought your Genset from other then a Home
Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to
contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do
for you.



Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA
market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in
WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with
all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing
before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!











Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO
start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new
Genset:



1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under
the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it
states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")


2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token
(even
if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel
filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check
as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean
appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!



3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an
"Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw,
and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON?
Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM
or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting
around
too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding
air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so
that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus
letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF
position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or
switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere
from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN
voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model
designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER
REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on
constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the
work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine
RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.




4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?


5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom
of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the
Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have
suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing
that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work
properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.


6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position
not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and
truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of
2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float
may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged
with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is
NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening
more then just a few times myself. You might try
and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl
with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the
stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the
bottom of the Float Bowl
on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER
HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float
to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better
then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you
definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues,
and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset
begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so -
then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the
Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added
precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed
in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER
FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly,
and/or totally remove the
Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting
inside to the Float
at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the
Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing
more!
If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL
STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of
NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the
tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before,
and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is
why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO
important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once
gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter
into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start -
even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!





GENSET ALL PROBLEM FIXES - 2 PARTS

My answer:

Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)

And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!

I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?

If you bought your Genset from other then a Home Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do for you.

Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!

Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new Genset:

1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")

2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token (even if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!

3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an "Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw, and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON? Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting around too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.

4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?

5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.

6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of 2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening more then just a few times myself. You might try and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the bottom of the Float Bowl on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues, and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so - then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly, and/or totally remove the Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting inside to the Float at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing more! If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before, and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start - even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!

PART 2


7 - As dumb as this next ? is to ask I have
to ask anyway -
Are you
getting GOOD spark at the spark plug? Again - see #3 AND check the
engine OIL LEVEL as well. The LOW OIL sensor is actual another ON-OFF
type switch and if the level Some units ship with the spark
wire cap disconnected and it may look like it's on the plug, but in
reality it really isn't fully connected! If you are getting a good
spark then it's highly unlikely that the Maintenance-free
Magnetron® electronic ignition would be bad. Fouled
spark plug - YES - bad Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic
ignition - hardly.


8 - If your Genset is used and said to be ? years old, and it just indeed
might have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly
be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this
happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot
- as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from
excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator
sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!



An added protective Genset "Control Board" circuit feature - that may
or may not be built into your Genset - is one that is in the Generator
Head circuitry itself and
may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT
on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition.
Just depends on how sophisticated and expensive your Genset is? Thus
protects by preventing RUNAWAY and OVER-VOLTAGE conditions rare as that
may be by today's BETTER designed Gensets (DOES NOT include the cheap
made in China junk). Again - read your operators or service manual as
it should have a pretty good
troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or
never got one if you bought it used to begin with.



If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes for servicing yourself, and they are indeed
below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally
worn down) then that most likely is your starting or output problem right there. If you are having Output problems as well.



If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be
very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap
retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush
retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate
replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail
under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the
generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!



It has to be one of the CHECK scenarios listed above, as I've covered every
possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case
you will have to schematic trace and DVM or Ohm-meter out wire to wire contacts.
This being the least likely scenario from experience.



If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt
contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a
walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then
re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.



Final Note: For all older used Gensets - Are you starting and running
the Gennie for at least 10 mins every month (30 days) as required by
most all Mfrs? Are you also keeping & running a good FUEL
PRESERVATIVE/STABILIZER (as required) in each tank of gas no matter how
often you run it? BEFORE you totally shutdown your Genset after running
it (even those short 10 required mins every month) - are you first
shutting off the gas supply completely, and then running the Genset out
DRY from as much gas from the Carb Bowl and gas line as you can? Even
though some "so-called" experts tell you not to do this - if you are
NOT going to be running the Genset every 30 days or plan to store it
for more then say 6 months at a time - THEN DO IT RELIGIOUSLY -
otherwise you will VARNISH the Carb with contaminated GUNK buildup from
STALE GAS! Happens all the time! Changing the DIRTY OIL frequently and
adding the proper level of 10-30 (recommended), or 10-40 oil is VERY
important as well. Your engine will use OIL esp if it's older with
"higher run hours" on it. Keeping a good Maintenance Log makes GOOD
SENSE as well. You
should be doing all of these things as well - if you want a smooth
running Genset when that real emergency does come up, and that Genset
absolutely has to work 100%!






That's about all there is unless you got a truly Defective Genset right from the start. Next stop - Home Depot!






Best regards to all with the same problems, and hope I helped you out 100% - all political humor/truth aside.



Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best
resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations
above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.



Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.



Best regards,



Frank






PART 2

7 - As dumb as this next ? is to ask I have to ask anyway - Are you getting GOOD spark at the spark plug? Again - see #3 AND check the engine OIL LEVEL as well. The LOW OIL sensor is actual another ON-OFF type switch and if the level Some units ship with the spark wire cap disconnected and it may look like it's on the plug, but in reality it really isn't fully connected! If you are getting a good spark then it's highly unlikely that the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition would be bad. Fouled spark plug - YES - bad Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition - hardly.

8 - If your Genset is used and said to be ? years old, and it just indeed might have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot - as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!

An added protective Genset "Control Board" circuit feature - that may or may not be built into your Genset - is one that is in the Generator Head circuitry itself and may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition. Just depends on how sophisticated and expensive your Genset is? Thus protects by preventing RUNAWAY and OVER-VOLTAGE conditions rare as that may be by today's BETTER designed Gensets (DOES NOT include the cheap made in China junk). Again - read your operators or service manual as it should have a pretty good troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or never got one if you bought it used to begin with.

If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes for servicing yourself, and they are indeed below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally worn down) then that most likely is your starting or output problem right there. If you are having Output problems as well.

If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!

It has to be one of the CHECK scenarios listed above, as I've covered every possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case you will have to schematic trace and DVM or Ohm-meter out wire to wire contacts. This being the least likely scenario from experience.

If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.

Final Note: For all older used Gensets - Are you starting and running the Gennie for at least 10 mins every month (30 days) as required by most all Mfrs? Are you also keeping & running a good FUEL PRESERVATIVE/STABILIZER (as required) in each tank of gas no matter how often you run it? BEFORE you totally shutdown your Genset after running it (even those short 10 required mins every month) - are you first shutting off the gas supply completely, and then running the Genset out DRY from as much gas from the Carb Bowl and gas line as you can? Even though some "so-called" experts tell you not to do this - if you are NOT going to be running the Genset every 30 days or plan to store it for more then say 6 months at a time - THEN DO IT RELIGIOUSLY - otherwise you will VARNISH the Carb with contaminated GUNK buildup from STALE GAS! Happens all the time! Changing the DIRTY OIL frequently and adding the proper level of 10-30 (recommended), or 10-40 oil is VERY important as well. Your engine will use OIL esp if it's older with "higher run hours" on it. Keeping a good Maintenance Log makes GOOD SENSE as well. You should be doing all of these things as well - if you want a smooth running Genset when that real emergency does come up, and that Genset absolutely has to work 100%!

That's about all there is unless you got a truly Defective Genset right from the start. Next stop - Home Depot!

Best regards to all with the same problems, and hope I helped you out 100% - all political humor/truth aside.

Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.

Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.

Best regards,

Frank