Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).
The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the oil system and is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly: http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/MCC1635AK/139.MCC1635AK.1.59.1.html
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
MCC1635 OM http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/MCC1635AK---OM/139.MCC1635AK---OM.1.59.1.html
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
Answers & Comments
Oil System Plugged:
- Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
- Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the oil system and is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly:
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/MCC1635AK/139.MCC1635AK.1.59.1.html
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
- Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
- There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
- Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
MCC1635 OMhttp://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/MCC1635AK---OM/139.MCC1635AK---OM.1.59.1.html
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.