Coleman Powermate 6250
I have a Coleman Powermate generator Model PM 0525305 Ser# 96171339
that is maybe a couple of years old,have not used it maybe 40 hours at most.I started it up a couple of days it ran find for about 30 minutes then
all of a sudden it started running faster,check it and found ON/OFF switch
had somehow went from the On postion to half way between ON/OFF and it will not move,to ON or OFF,it did cut off by the choke.I tried to call Coleman but I understand they are out of business.Can someone tell me
caused this problem and will a new switch solve the problem?
Electrical Supplies - Coleman - Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator
Answers & Comments
My answer:
This a fairly common problem & easy fix with the Powermates, and other Gensets in the same class - made in you know where - China.
I seriously doubt if the Ignition Coil had anything to do with the failure of the KILL switch, as by how it's wired in the Genset circuit unless maybe you failed to fully set it to the ON position, and then in that case you may have had some "arc over" internally at that switch contact point to Gnd - prematurely causing a bit of engine surging - as that like which happens just before an engine runs out of gas.
If your Genset has a 3-wire connector harness coming off that ON/OFF switch then most likely there are only 3 wires connected to the back of that switch. One single wire (most likely GRN in color) goes to an/the Engine Block GROUND bolt somewhere - easy to follow.
The other 2 wires will be the same color (every Genset is a bit different so my schematic only says they are #18 with no color stated - possibly WHT though ??), and one of those 2 wires goes to the #1 pin of that 3-wire harness connector, which in turn is WHT in color on the other side of that 3-wire harness connector pin #1, and goes back to the Control Board inside the Front Panel Box. The other #18 switch wire goes to the Ignition Coil Primary side. Lets hope it's just a bad switch and not a bad Control Board.
Most likely the switch contacts inside just burned out from heat breakdown, as when you go to shut off the Genset - by turning it to OFF - the switch has to take the Ignition Coil Primary voltage/current and basically SHORTS it to Ground thus collapsing the Ignition Coil by robbing the Primary excitation voltage. It's bound to fail if it's a "cheap switch design" to begin with. AND - we all know about cheap Made in China stuff now don't we?
Just so you know - you are not the only one in this same Genset boat - as there are tons of people out there with far worse Powermate problems then just a simple switch problem like you have there. Count your blessings!
You are right about Powermate being out of business though, but not all hope is lost there either when you read everything farther below - as to factory service and parts for your Genset.
I know it's a little long, but the info farther below may be of future help to you later down the road - so copy and print it out for later reference just in case you have other Powermate Genset issues or this site goes down as well....hahahaha.....just kidding.
If you choose to contact the PRAMAC people about getting a new switch, and repairing the Genset yourself here are a couple options for you. If their factory replacement part is outrageously high in price - then you have another option.
If you are handy with a good soldering iron and some good 60/40 Kester solder and acid flux all you have to get is a good ON-OFF single-pole single-throw (only 2 wire connection points for the wires) toggle switch rated at 120 VAC or 12-24 VDC, and at least 10-15 amps rated, and just do it yourself. $5 part worst case!!
DO NOT use a Momentary switch type - as then someone could start the Genset inadvertently - esp if you have smaller kids around!!
Just make sure you get a good solder connection on the wires and the switch tabs, and make sure you tin both the wires and the switch tabs first to get good results. If the switch doesn't fit the old hole perfectly you may have to do a bit of modification work there.
Sorry - I can't help you out there. Make sure you mark the switch as to ON & OFF - unless you find one with a metal ON-OFF backplate like some come with - as there is no right or wrong way here. It's either one way or the other depending on how you mount the switch to personal preference. Right - Left or Up - Down.
Test the switch first before final mounting by firing the Gennie in whichever is the ON position so you know which is which, and make sure it kills the Gennie when you flip the switch in the opposite direction. That's is all there is to it. You're done!!
Hopefully like I said before the Ignition Coil is OK and so to is the Control Board otherwise I know I'll be hearing back from you soon.
Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.
Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.
Best regards,
Frank
Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO
start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new
Genset:
1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under
the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it
states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")
2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token
(even
if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel
filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check
as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean
appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!
3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an
"Electrical Switch" btw)? Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM
or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting around
too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding air!
4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?
5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom
of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the
Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have
suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing
that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work
properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.
6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position
not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and
truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of
2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float
may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged
with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is
NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening
more then just a few times myself. You might try
and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl
with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the
stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the
bottom of the Float Bowl
on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER
HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float
to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better
then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you
definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues,
and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset
begins to run great - as it should - and coontinues to do so -
then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the
Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole assy there just as an added
precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed
in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER
FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly,
and/or totally remove the
Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting
inside to the Float
at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the
Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing
more!
If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL
STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of
NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the
tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before,
and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is
why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO
important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once
gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter
into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start -
even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!
7 - As dumb as this next ? is to ask I have to ask anyway -
Are you
getting GOOD spark at the spark plug? Some units ship with the spark
wire cap disconnected and it may look like it's on the plug, but in
reality it really isn't fully connected! If you are getting a good
spark then it's highly unlikely that the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition would be bad. Fouled
spark plug - YES - bad Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition - hardly.
8 - If your Genset is used and said to be ? years old, and it just indeed
might have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly
be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this
happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot
- as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from
excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator
sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!
An added protective Genset circuit feature in that the generator itself
may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition.
Again - your operators or service manual should have a pretty good
troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or
never got one if you bought it used to begin with.
If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes for servicing yourself, and they are indeed
below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally
worn down) then that most likely is your starting or output problem right there. If you are having Output problems as well.
If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be
very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap
retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush
retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate
replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail
under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the
generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!
It has to be one of the CHECK scenarios listed above, as I've covered every
possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case
you will have to schematic trace and DVM or Ohm-meter out wire to wire contacts.
This being the least likely scenario from experience.
If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt
contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a
walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then
re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.
Final Note: For all older used Gensets - Are you starting and running
the Gennie for at least 10 mins every month (30 days) as required by
most all Mfrs? Are you also keeping & running a good FUEL
PRESERVATIVE/STABILIZER (as required) in each tank of gas no matter how
often you run it? BEFORE you totally shutdown your Genset after running
it (even those short 10 required mins every month) are you first
shutting off the gas supply completely, and then running the Genset out
DRY from as much gas from the Carb Bowl and gas line as you can? You
should be doing all of these things as well if you want a smooth
running Genset when that real emergency does come up, and that Genset
absolutely has to work 100%!
That's about all there is unless you got a truly Defective Genset right from the start. Next stop - Home Depot!
Best regards to all with the same problems, and hope I helped you out 100% - all political humor/truth aside.
Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best
resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations
above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.
Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.
Best regards,
Frank
6250 powermate it runs but trips out on one phase not triping the bracker then you wait and it cimes back on
When using the 220 volts to run a pump, it trips out after about a minute. It doesn't trip the pumps breaker and the pump runs good with another generator. It may have been putting out less power ? What do I need to replace?