Dishwasher Dishlex DX302WB No Hot Water
Cant seem to locate an heater element to check as Dishwasher is not heating.Could you specify the location please. Couldnt find product below Model Number is DX 302 WB
Dishwashers - Electrolux - 18 in. ESL4114 Slim-Line Built-in Dishwasher
Answers & Comments
Thank you This worked for me!
The heater was ok found dry joint on pc board
see attatched photo
Took top 6 screws out of door holding front panel in place
Removed front switch panel
I then labeled the 6 cables with 6 being for the heater
Removed pc board from housing to find dry joint
using small piece of wire and solder repaired board
re assembled
now as good as new
Yes same here water not heating in our dx302 watched video and followed steps and dishwasher now works perfect. Thanks heaps
Had my Dishlex 13 years then it stopped heating the water. Only noticed because the dishes were coming out wet with soap residue.
Followed this solution and after the 2nd attempt it worked.
I tried heating each of the connection points first but a couple were jut too dry.
2nd attempt I added enough new solder to each connection and then it worked.
Thanks for this!
Thank you this worked for me.
1st of all to be sure that the Heater element has not open circuited, checked the resistance of the heater element which was O.K. Then dismantled the control by unfastening top 6 Counter sunk screws on the front door and removed the PCB housing. The cables are terminated to the PCB via 6 push on sockets. The socket sizes being unequal, there is no chance of interchanging the cables during re-assembly.
PCB track feeding output of Relay was burnt out due to over heating. Soldered a short length of wire directly from the output of the relay to the spade terminal leg on the PCB.
See attached picture
Had this same issue in model ESL4131. Fixed it according to instruction and now works fine.
Thanks for the hint!
You guys are blo....dy brilliant. I have put 2x heater elements into my DX302. The first time I think I got lucky - having the circuit board on the door probably banged the joint back into life but the second one - still no heat. After looking on this site BINGO. Joint as described 30 secs with the trusty Weller and all fixed. Unfortunately - I can't send back the "replacement" $85 heater I have but at least I won't be buying another one.
One think gives me the willies are those silly hose clamps on the heater - they are hard work. Why can't (I think price might be the issue) use worm drives.....
Thanks for this site - I'm just stoked.
Element surrounds short section of stainless steel tube on outlet side of pump (clamped hose section either side) Unlikely to be faulty, check circuit board for dry joint at relay.
STEWY JJ
Just done repairs on our dishwasher as you suggested. It does work. Thanks for that, it saved us megabucks. Awesome!
Hi
I have the same problem with my 302.
I noticed the dodgy relay solder joints and have fixed them and confirmed the operation of the relay, but still no joy.
Does anyone have a service manual they would be kind enough to email?
[email protected]
Thanks.
This fixed my dishwasher just as described. Brilliant. Saved me heaps. New fan of site!
The relay could be off because the thermostat is faulty. There are 4 wires to the thermostat . Does anyone know which trigger the relay to close?
As above - hot joint fault noted cleaned & re-soldered - highly appreciated
Art
Could anyone kindly share a picture showing exactly where I need to solder? The pictures shown so far are only showing the burnt track and not how t should be fixed. Thanks!
I didnt use any wire just re soldered the burnt joint and it now works fine.
Thanks to all above, done a bit of reserch on the net and solved my no heating problem on a WESTINGHOUSE SB915. Dry solder joint just as you displayed. It seems the same controler is used on a variaty of ELECTROLUX dish washers.
Cheers
Ditto... for my dishwasher, a Westinghouse SB907, (which I've had for just over 10 years and up until yesterday, had performed very relliably), but the PCB is exactly the same as the one discussed in this thread. I removed the PCB and on initial examination, it appeared to be fine - no evidence of burning, nor any obvious dry soldered joints. However, bearing in mind what I'd read on this forum, where one or two others reported the same, I decided to re-solder all of the pins to the relay, as well as the beeper's pins (only 2 pins), which had gone silent (stopped beeping) about a year after I bought the machine. The machine now heats up and dries AND the beeper works again.. It is too early to tell yet if this repair was 100% sucessful, as the problem with mine was intermittent - i.e. it worked OK most of the time, but sometimes no heat. Last night was the last straw and decided to either replace te machine with a new one, but see if there was any DIY solution first. There was of course such a solution: right HERE on this fixya.com thread... I must admit that I'm a bit worried that there are other dry or unreliable soldered joints on the PCB, as re-soldering the beeper's pins proved it beyond doubt, so now wonder if something else will stop functioning for the same reason, but if so, I'll at least know what to do and how to do it - it's not a big job or a difficult one. If I'd not found this forum, I'd probably have wasted an awful lot of money (on a new dishwasher that I don't need) or, still have a malfunctioning, white-elephant in the space in my kitchen, reserved for a (fully functional) dishwasher! Thanks all of you - you have taken a big load off my mind...
Resoldering the dry joints on my heating relay on the PCB worked perfectly for me too. I thought I was up for a new heating element or possibly a new dishwasher. Thank you so much for this thread. My Westinghouse SB907 is now fully functional again.
Had the same problem and this worked so happy
had the same problem and this worked so happy
Guys, Thank you so much for your info, i lost heat in my 302, followed your guide, 1st time I resoldered 5 joints, nothing, then I resoldered about 20 joints that were large enough for my shakey hands, BINGO, it now works so I believe there is a quality control issue with these boards.
Thanks again, otherwise I would be buying a new machine.
Many dish washers rely on supplied hot water and do not heat supply water. Check to make sure it is connected to the proper water source.
This was also the problem with the board on mine. Resoldered the burnt joint and now its like new.
My Dishlex 302W had exactly this problem! The photos could have been from the PCB in my machine. I soldered the joint that had burned, and presto! - hot water again. Thanks so much!
Dreadman
I went over all solder joints agin ,melting and adding a tiny bit of new solder too each joint, now its working better than it has in the last 3 months, thanks heaps guys
Great information.
Saved cost and mucking around under the DW to replace the heater element.
Simply checked and resoldered a few joints on the circuit board at the front and bingo. Problem solved.
Got 10 years out of the Dishwasher. Might get a few more.
Hi ST13P,
My dx302 has stopped heating the water, so I tried what you suggested. Voltages all look good on the heater plug (orange/blue wires). 8v when power on. 240v when running. I removed the plug and it is not an open circuit across the contacts. This would indicate the heater element is ok, right?
I havent pulled the base apart to get at the element yet. I removed the circuit board and had a good look - no burnt/melted joints.
Any ideas?
thanks.
If you want to try and differentiate between a faulty element or relay: the large "orange and blue" connector has neutral (blue) and the heating element (orange), and is switched via the relay on the control board. 240V across those wires means the relay is off or the track on the board has blown. ~3-4 V across means the relay closed and a reasonable current is flowing (i.e. the relay and PCB tracks have a small resistance); ~0V across would mean no current is flowing and the element is stuffed.