Corrosion can form between the pipes and the fins inside the fridge.And this causes the problem.--------------If you are a bit of a handyman,turn off the gas and take the bottom outside vent off and remove the whole burner assembly at the base of the fridge. There is a metal cover that shields the burner but It is fairly straight forward, just be careful once the burner assembly is removed to NOT loose the gas jet that is a little dome like cone inside the end where the gas pipe goes in. Carefully clean the jet with metho solvent to unblock the jet orifice.And do not poke anything in the tiny jet hole.Then try if it works and cools properly on gas.More that likely the control board has gone bad or the thermostat quit working. You might have to try and light this on gas several times to finally get it to go, if there is any air in the line it won't light and the air must be purged. This can take several minutes of continuous trying to get it to light. When it kicks off switch from gas to off and back to gas again till it lights. Have you checked the thermocouple that lets the control board know that there is fire in the pilot? If this is bad it won;t kick the main gas valve on. You can check these with a volt ohm meter, when there is fire on the thermocouple you will get a small voltage reading in the mil amps portion on the tester, no reading means bad thermocouple. Check the fuses on the circuit board under the cover I mentioned on the back of the fridge. You should have access through a door on the outside of the coach.----------------If not then Do a direct test on the cooling unit. You will first need to locate the 110Volt heating element on the rear of the refrigerator. It is located in the tin stack on the right hand side. After locating these two wires, you must plug them in to a 110 Volt source. You can do so by cutting an old extension cord and splicing the wires to to the heating element wires, then plug the extension cord in. This will by pass the thermostat and run your cooling system wide open. If your refrigerator works in a direct test then the problem is your thermostat. But if still not running then problem is with mother board(the main board of the unit).Also, you can replace the OEM electronic motherboard with a better made 3rd party board made by Dinosaur Electronics, who make quality replacement boards for less cost then original. They are not difficult to install.As you mentioned its not cooling the fridge on any 3 way source,this indicates board problem.------------------ This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
I'll need a little info from you to help with diagnosis. Do you smell a hint of ammonia at all when opening door or freezer of fridge? If you take cover off outside, and look at the tubes at lower part of fridge near burner area, do you see any yellowish looking powder-like substance on the tubes of the cooling unit anywhere? Has the fridge been running previously and working o.k. , or did you just start it up from sitting off for a while. The fins in back of refrigerator area, do they feel cold to touch, frosted, or just cool or warm?
First thing to check before you do anything else is check the fan. The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp. The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages
Two issues in the past with this unit, The control baords from Dometc are not near as good as ones you can get aftermarket. Also, you can replace the OEM electronic motherboard with a better made 3rd party board made by Dinosaur Electronics, who make quality replacement boards for about $130. They are not difficult to install.
The other issues is the refridgerator seals, they can leak if the are in bad shape replace it, another simple fix. If all else fails, but i think this is not necessary if your getting a good cold freezer You can check the operation of the heater for the sytem. I am going to first sugest to do a direct test on the cooling unit. You will first need to locate the 110Volt heating element on the rear of the refrigerator. It is located in the tin stack on the right hand side. After locating these two wires, you must plug them in to a 110 Volt source. You can do so by cutting an old extension cord and splicing the wires to to the heating element wires, then plug the extension cord in. This will by pass the thermostat and run your cooling system wide open. If your refrigerator works in a direct test then the problem is your thermostat.
If the freezer is getting cold then the unit has to be working, there is only one source for the heat to provide cooling for the whole unit. I gave you advice for a newer model which has the fan. The older units like you spoke of do not have this. I apologize for the mistake. The humididty level effects the cooling also, but my guess would be the seal on the unit, or the thermostat, maybe it does not run long enough to cool the fridge along with the freezer. The freezer cools first. I have seen the thermostats all rusted and not fucnctioning inside due to moisture buld up. The test with the heating element will eleminate the thermostat or point to it being the culprit.if the unit works fine while pluged in to 110.If the freezer is getting cold then the unit has to be working, there is only one source for the heat to provide cooling for the whole unit. I gave you advice for a newer model which has the fan. The older units like you spoke of do not have this. I apologize for the mistake. The humididty level effects the cooling also, but my guess would be the seal on the unit, or the thermostat, maybe it does not run long enough to cool the fridge along with the freezer. The freezer cools first. I have seen the thermostats all rusted and not fucnctioning inside due to moisture buld up. The test with the heating element will eleminate the thermostat or point to it being the culprit.if the unit works fine while pluged in to 110.
I appreciate the thanks and will be glad to help you in any way possible in the future. I have dealt with these for years and when the work you love them and when they don't, well you can fill in the blank there. just wait till you go to the fridge and it is no longer cooling and you find out that the ammonia has leaked out for no reason what so ever. If you see a yellow stain in the back of the fridge and it is not cooling, well you have to look for a replacement because yours will be done! ONCE THEY LEAK THERE IS NO FIXING! iF YOU ARE HAPPY WITH MY ADVICE I WOULD APPRECIATE IF YOU COULD ACCEPT MY SOLUTION THAT MEANS A LOT TO ME.TtHANKS AGAINI appreciate the thanks and will be glad to help you in any way possible in the future. I have dealt with these for years and when the work you love them and when they don't, well you can fill in the blank there. just wait till you go to the fridge and it is no longer cooling and you find out that the ammonia has leaked out for no reason what so ever. If you see a yellow stain in the back of the fridge and it is not cooling, well you have to look for a replacement because yours will be done! ONCE THEY LEAK THERE IS NO FIXING! iF YOU ARE HAPPY WITH MY ADVICE I WOULD APPRECIATE IF YOU COULD ACCEPT MY SOLUTION THAT MEANS A LOT TO ME.TtHANKS AGAIN
Answers & Comments
Corrosion can form between the pipes and the fins inside the fridge.And this causes the problem. -------------- If you are a bit of a handyman,turn off the gas and take the bottom outside vent off and remove the whole burner assembly at the base of the fridge. There is a metal cover that shields the burner but It is fairly straight forward, just be careful once the burner assembly is removed to NOT loose the gas jet that is a little dome like cone inside the end where the gas pipe goes in.
Carefully clean the jet with metho solvent to unblock the jet orifice.And do not poke anything in the tiny jet hole.Then try if it works and cools properly on gas.More that likely the control board has gone bad or the thermostat quit working. You might have to try and light this on gas several times to finally get it to go, if there is any air in the line it won't light and the air must be purged. This can take several minutes of continuous trying to get it to light. When it kicks off switch from gas to off and back to gas again till it lights. Have you checked the thermocouple that lets the control board know that there is fire in the pilot? If this is bad it won;t kick the main gas valve on. You can check these with a volt ohm meter, when there is fire on the thermocouple you will get a small voltage reading in the mil amps portion on the tester, no reading means bad thermocouple. Check the fuses on the circuit board under the cover I mentioned on the back of the fridge. You should have access through a door on the outside of the coach.---------------- If not then Do a direct test on the cooling unit. You will first need to locate the 110Volt heating element on the rear of the refrigerator. It is located in the tin stack on the right hand side. After locating these two wires, you must plug them in to a 110 Volt source. You can do so by cutting an old extension cord and splicing the wires to to the heating element wires, then plug the extension cord in. This will by pass the thermostat and run your cooling system wide open. If your refrigerator works in a direct test then the problem is your thermostat. But if still not running then problem is with mother board(the main board of the unit).Also, you can replace the OEM electronic motherboard with a better made 3rd party board made by Dinosaur Electronics, who make quality replacement boards for less cost then original. They are not difficult to install.As you mentioned its not cooling the fridge on any 3 way source,this indicates board problem.------------------ This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Thanks for the appreciation.Helpmech.
I'll need a little info from you to help with diagnosis. Do you smell a hint of ammonia at all when opening door or freezer of fridge? If you take cover off outside, and look at the tubes at lower part of fridge near burner area, do you see any yellowish looking powder-like substance on the tubes of the cooling unit anywhere? Has the fridge been running previously and working o.k. , or did you just start it up from sitting off for a while. The fins in back of refrigerator area, do they feel cold to touch, frosted, or just cool or warm?
Any info?
Has this been taken care of by another technician?
First thing to check before you do anything else is check the fan. The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages
Two issues in the past with this unit, The control baords from Dometc are not near as good as ones you can get aftermarket. Also, you can replace the OEM electronic motherboard with a better made 3rd party board made by Dinosaur Electronics, who make quality replacement boards for about $130. They are not difficult to install.
The other issues is the refridgerator seals, they can leak if the are in bad shape replace it, another simple fix.
If all else fails, but i think this is not necessary if your getting a good cold freezer
You can check the operation of the heater for the sytem.
I am going to first sugest to do a direct test on the cooling unit. You will first need to locate the 110Volt heating element on the rear of the refrigerator. It is located in the tin stack on the right hand side. After locating these two wires, you must plug them in to a 110 Volt source. You can do so by cutting an old extension cord and splicing the wires to to the heating element wires, then plug the extension cord in. This will by pass the thermostat and run your cooling system wide open. If your refrigerator works in a direct test then the problem is your thermostat.
If the freezer is getting cold then the unit has to be working, there is only one source for the heat to provide cooling for the whole unit. I gave you advice for a newer model which has the fan. The older units like you spoke of do not have this. I apologize for the mistake. The humididty level effects the cooling also, but my guess would be the seal on the unit, or the thermostat, maybe it does not run long enough to cool the fridge along with the freezer. The freezer cools first. I have seen the thermostats all rusted and not fucnctioning inside due to moisture buld up. The test with the heating element will eleminate the thermostat or point to it being the culprit.if the unit works fine while pluged in to 110.
I appreciate the thanks and will be glad to help you in any way possible in the future. I have dealt with these for years and when the work you love them and when they don't, well you can fill in the blank there. just wait till you go to the fridge and it is no longer cooling and you find out that the ammonia has leaked out for no reason what so ever. If you see a yellow stain in the back of the fridge and it is not cooling, well you have to look for a replacement because yours will be done! ONCE THEY LEAK THERE IS NO FIXING! iF YOU ARE HAPPY WITH MY ADVICE I WOULD APPRECIATE IF YOU COULD ACCEPT MY SOLUTION THAT MEANS A LOT TO ME.TtHANKS AGAIN