Dryer takes too long to heat
Model DEGX1 electric dryer
Dryer is taking too long to dry. The dryer heats but only 1 of the elements seems to be turning on.
In this model, there is a control module with two relays. Upon removing the cover, I found a red power wire melted and disconnected, with the plastic plug fused to the metal connector at the relay. A yellow wire is also attached to this relay but with no visible damage to it. I replaced the red wire and connector, hooked to the relay and tried the dryer.
I can see the elements through a space in the aluminum shielding but it seems that only some of the elements actually heat up. I've checked voltages on the wires (red and yellow) and I get 120 on each. The dryer will dry the clothes as some of the coils heat up and turn orange.
Here are my questions:
Do you think the relay is bad? I'm not sure but I can hear some relay switch on and off (click) and the elements that do turn orange will stop. Later they come on again, after another click. Everything else seems to work fine on the dryer at this point -- other than slow drying.
Would current flow through a damaged heating element without heating it? I check the current at both sides of the element and both sides read 120. I have two sets of wires to check, violet and yellow. Also, there are three sensors on the heating unit, two small ones wired in what looks to be a sequence; and a slightly larger one with the reset button. I'm guessing these are the temperature sensor and/or the overheat safety switches.
I guess I need to know if I should use the dryer or if I should replace the control module and/or heating element. I am capable enough to replace the parts myself, I just want to know what I should replace.
Dryer is taking too long to dry. The dryer heats but only 1 of the elements seems to be turning on.
In this model, there is a control module with two relays. Upon removing the cover, I found a red power wire melted and disconnected, with the plastic plug fused to the metal connector at the relay. A yellow wire is also attached to this relay but with no visible damage to it. I replaced the red wire and connector, hooked to the relay and tried the dryer.
I can see the elements through a space in the aluminum shielding but it seems that only some of the elements actually heat up. I've checked voltages on the wires (red and yellow) and I get 120 on each. The dryer will dry the clothes as some of the coils heat up and turn orange.
Here are my questions:
Do you think the relay is bad? I'm not sure but I can hear some relay switch on and off (click) and the elements that do turn orange will stop. Later they come on again, after another click. Everything else seems to work fine on the dryer at this point -- other than slow drying.
Would current flow through a damaged heating element without heating it? I check the current at both sides of the element and both sides read 120. I have two sets of wires to check, violet and yellow. Also, there are three sensors on the heating unit, two small ones wired in what looks to be a sequence; and a slightly larger one with the reset button. I'm guessing these are the temperature sensor and/or the overheat safety switches.
I guess I need to know if I should use the dryer or if I should replace the control module and/or heating element. I am capable enough to replace the parts myself, I just want to know what I should replace.
Dryers - Fisher and Paykel - DEGX1 Electric Dryer
Answers & Comments
Okay...I'm not familiar with the configuration of Fisher and Paykel dryers. I am familiar with many other dryers, though. If the wires become melted this is usually caused by excessive current flow or a loose connection. When wires at a terminal become loose the intermittent connection can cause arcing which leads to the generation of heat, which causes the wire or connector to burn open. I have also seen heating elements short out against the casing and cause an excessive current flow problem.
Just so we're clear here, current is the force that causes electrons to flow. It is usually measured in amperes (or amps). What you are measuring is the voltage. Voltage is the difference in potential between two points. If you were to measure voltage between two points (such as through a simple wire coil) you would read 0 volts because there is no differnce in potential between the two points, as the coil should read a short. Now, if you have a RESISTIVE coil, or a coil that is open (broken) the same measure would yield a voltage reading, because there is now a difference in potential between the two points. Does this make sense to you? I know it can be confusing at times because you normally associate a voltage reading as something being good. In a nutshell: if you measure across a wire coil and read voltage - the coil is open. If you read 0 volts - the coil is good.
Who knows what caused the melted wire in your appliance. The one thing I am sure of is this is not normal. If you want to replace the relay to be sure, that is your judgement call. Relays do go bad. I would strongly recommend replacing the heating element as it appears that this model has a dual element that will still work (to some degree) if one side fails. Very ingenious design, by the way.
In addition, a lot of heat related problems associated with dryers are attributed to poor ventilation. A dryer requires proper air flow in order to work efficiently. If you have not cleaned or inspected your dryer vent ducting recently (or ever), you may want to. This is the source of many dryer malfunctions and can create a fire hazard or habitat for rodents. The rule of thumb when it comes to ventialtion is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the ventilation, the BETTER. Every bend or rise you put in a dryer exhaust vent line creates resistance against the blower motor and possible choke points for lint to accumulate. The lint screens in dryers are not perfect and they do not collect ALL the lint. Simply cleaning the lint trap in many cases is not enough. Cleaning after every use, however, does cut down on the potential for your ducting to become clogged. If a dryer is allowed to run in a condition where it has poor air flow, the heating circuits will actually overheat to the point of failure. I mention all of this because I don't want you to replace parts only to have the appliance fail again due to poor ventilation.
I hope you find some of this information helpful. Let em know if you have any further questions.