Good day, Most Sub zero's use 2 compressors. They are independent of each other except for the condenser fan motor that cools the condenser. That fan motor is located in the machine compartment behind the grille, and should be checked first to see if it is running. If Not, it must be replaced. There are four reasons the refrigerator itself will not cool. 1. The fan motor mounted on the back wall is not running. You might have to depress the fan and light switches on the top front of the compartment to test it. 2. The thermostat that controls the compressor has failed. It must be tested with a VOM meter for continuity. It's location varies with the year and model. 3. The refrigerant charge has been lost. This is an item that a qualified tech must be used to test. 4.The compressor has failed or the starting components mounted to the side of the compressor have failed. The start components consist of the relay and overload protector. Once removed, Both can be checked with an VOM meter set to ohms setting, for testing. They should both read zero ohms or close to zero. Service techs carry a starting cord, that allows them to run the compressor independent of the machine. If you've reached that point, the best solution, is to call a tech qualified in Sub Zero.
Without knowing the age of the machine, you should check the date of purchase to see if you have any warranty items still covered.
Hi friend, sorry to see you still having issues. I couldn't get to your post fast enough, and honestly don't want your money.
I hope you receive enough input to resolve this irritating issue. Your looking at the dark side of refrigeration.
If your 100% sure that new motor runs, and 100% the new switch is good, then it has to be some type of wiring problem.
First, on some versions, the wires that go to the fan switch, end in a 90 degree insulated boot. It has happened that the wiring in or near the boot has broken under the insulation.
Has to have the wires cut back, stripped and twisted together to verify. Happens.
If that gets the motor running, then it can be left that way with no harm, as I said earlier.
Or, make up a new set, and wire in as needed.
Second, in the compressor compartment is a large cable, laying on the floor, that connects everything in that machine together. Look carefully at the plug that connects both sections.
Carefully unplug and take a close look at all the terminal ends. If you see anything questionable, you can cut one wire by color on both sides and wire a jumper with spare wire, and 2 wire nuts.
I've had to wire bypass the whole plug assembly on some of these machines in rare occasions.
Hope you need none of this, but I thought I'd pass it on.
Jack...
Hi friend, sorry to see you still having issues. I couldn't get to your post fast enough, and honestly don't want your money.
I hope you receive enough input to resolve this irritating issue. Your looking at the dark side of refrigeration.
If your 100% sure that new motor runs, and 100% the new switch is good, then it has to be some type of wiring problem.
First, on some versions, the wires that go to the fan switch, end in a 90 degree insulated boot. It has happened that the wiring in or near the boot has broken under the insulation. Has to have the wires cut back, stripped and twisted together to verify. Happens. If that gets the motor running, then it can be left that way with no harm, as I said earlier. Or, make up a new set, and wire in as needed.
Second, in the compressor compartment is a large cable, laying on the floor, that connects everything in that machine together. Look carefully at the plug that connects both sections. Carefully unplug and take a close look at all the terminal ends. If you see anything questionable, you can cut one wire by color on both sides and wire a jumper with spare wire, and 2 wire nuts. I've had to wire bypass the whole plug assembly on some of these machines in rare occasions.
Hope you need none of this, but I thought I'd pass it on. Jack...
Answers & Comments
Good day,
Most Sub zero's use 2 compressors. They are independent of each other except for the condenser fan motor that cools the condenser. That fan motor is located in the machine compartment behind the grille, and should be checked first to see if it is running. If Not, it must be replaced.
There are four reasons the refrigerator itself will not cool.
1. The fan motor mounted on the back wall is not running. You might have to depress the fan and light switches on the top front
of the compartment to test it.
2. The thermostat that controls the compressor has failed. It must be tested with a VOM meter for continuity. It's location varies with the year and model.
3. The refrigerant charge has been lost. This is an item that a qualified tech must be used to test.
4.The compressor has failed or the starting components mounted to the side of the compressor have failed.
The start components consist of the relay and overload protector. Once removed, Both can be checked with an VOM meter set to ohms setting, for testing. They should both read zero ohms or close to zero.
Service techs carry a starting cord, that allows them to run the compressor independent of the machine.
If you've reached that point, the best solution, is to call a tech qualified in Sub Zero.
Without knowing the age of the machine, you should check the date of purchase to see if you have any warranty items still covered.
Thank you for using FixYa
Hey,
You ain't bad yourself. Nice to deal with a guy with something sitting on top of his shoulders.
Just be greatful it broke. That dirt, by my estimation was heading you into some real pricey
problems in the not to distant future.
Isn't it great when a plan comes together.
Happy New year,
Jack
Hi friend, sorry to see you still having issues. I couldn't get to your post fast enough, and honestly don't want your money.
I hope you receive enough input to resolve this irritating issue. Your looking at the dark side of refrigeration.
If your 100% sure that new motor runs, and 100% the new switch is good, then it has to be some type of wiring problem.
First, on some versions, the wires that go to the fan switch, end in a 90 degree insulated boot. It has happened that the wiring in or near the boot has broken under the insulation.
Has to have the wires cut back, stripped and twisted together to verify. Happens.
If that gets the motor running, then it can be left that way with no harm, as I said earlier.
Or, make up a new set, and wire in as needed.
Second, in the compressor compartment is a large cable, laying on the floor, that connects everything in that machine together. Look carefully at the plug that connects both sections.
Carefully unplug and take a close look at all the terminal ends. If you see anything questionable, you can cut one wire by color on both sides and wire a jumper with spare wire, and 2 wire nuts.
I've had to wire bypass the whole plug assembly on some of these machines in rare occasions.
Hope you need none of this, but I thought I'd pass it on.
Jack...