Will try to help you checked the igniter you say good if good does it glow if so clamp on one wire and take an amp draw while heating I like to see a minimum of 3 amps if glowing and 3 and above change the coils on the gas valve very cheap, now if not glowing and good ignitor the fun begins power comes out of the heat relay on the control board passes thru the thermal fuse then thermal cut off then hi limit then the flame sensor while also feeding the gas coils the neutral is supplied thru the centrifugal switch on the tumbler motor if the dryer stays running the centrifugal switch is good and you have a neutral bad flame sensor very rare since I am not there check the thermal cut off once blown it does not reset has to be replaced if all the fused I mentioned check good then check the heat relay on the board black and red wire stick meter ends in both off should read 120 volt when machine turned on should hear it click and meter should read 0 volts the boards seldom go bad but I have replaced a few in 5 years I am leaning more towards an open thermal cutoff
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Will try to help you checked the igniter you say good if good does it glow if so clamp on one wire and take an amp draw while heating I like to see a minimum of 3 amps if glowing and 3 and above change the coils on the gas valve very cheap, now if not glowing and good ignitor the fun begins power comes out of the heat relay on the control board passes thru the thermal fuse then thermal cut off then hi limit then the flame sensor while also feeding the gas coils the neutral is supplied thru the centrifugal switch on the tumbler motor if the dryer stays running the centrifugal switch is good and you have a neutral bad flame sensor very rare since I am not there check the thermal cut off once blown it does not reset has to be replaced if all the fused I mentioned check good then check the heat relay on the board black and red wire stick meter ends in both off should read 120 volt when machine turned on should hear it click and meter should read 0 volts the boards seldom go bad but I have replaced a few in 5 years I am leaning more towards an open thermal cutoff