Just fixed mine with info found on hear. If you're a little handy or have someone who is it's a simple fix. Under bottom plate a thermal fuse is connected in black wire under white insulation. I picked one up at radio shack (http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=thermal%20fuse&origkw=thermal%20fuse&sr=1) got the 228 dgree C. I cut insulation and removed. I then cut black wire at connection at each side. I then placed new fuse in line and crimped small connectors on each side. Placed insulation back on and taped up. Screwed back together and it worked fine. Fuse cost $1.69. To think I almost tossed it.
The most common reason for not heating up is because of a blown thermal fuse. Apparently the controller lets the iron get too hot or the fuse is out of manufacturing tolerance - and so the fuse opens.This waffle maker has two lamps. On mine, the red lamp stays on as long as it is plugged in and switched on. The green lamp is normally lit when the relay is off and dark when the relay is on. When the waffle maker is cold, the relay normally turns on within a second of power-up (switched on). During power-up, the green (ready) lamp should flicker on, and then as the relay clicks, go dark.If the green (ready) lamp does not flicker, the fuse is probably blown.A replacement fuse (240°C) can be purchased frommany sources (Google search).The fuse is clamped inside the bottom clamshell in silicon tubing. Do not damage this tubing. Remove the clamp over the silicon tubing. Slide the tubing to the side and cut the stranded wire close to the fuse. Remove the tubing and cut the other stranded wire close to the fuse. Be careful not to nick the wire when you strip off insulation. The fuse should be re-attached to the wires with new all-metal crimp fasteners. Don't forget to reinstall the silicon tubing before you crimp! Tighten the clamp over the fuse (inside the tubing). You can get the crimp tool at hardware stores, Radio Shack, Lowes, etc.If the "iron" is getting too hot and blowing thermal fuses, you may be able to avoid this failure by keeping thethermostatset lower.
OMG when you remove the top aluminum cover DO NOT put your finger under it to lift it off. The top is made of STAMPED aluminum and the edge is RAZOR SHARP! The thermal fuse is not always the problem, the problem is the lack of care assembling the wiring to the inner heating element. The insulated wiring when assembled is touching THE HEATING ELEMENT and the heating element melts the insulation and shorts everything out. It's obvious if this is the problem, the wiring will be melted, the fuse is probably fine (mine was). You cannot solder the wires back together, the heating element gets hotter than the melting point of the solder. You need to crimp everything back together and when you reassemble keep the wires away from the element.OMG when you remove the top aluminum cover DO NOT put your finger under it to lift it off. The top is made of STAMPED aluminum and the edge is RAZOR SHARP! The thermal fuse is not always the problem, the problem is the lack of care assembling the wiring to the inner heating element. The insulated wiring when assembled is touching THE HEATING ELEMENT and the heating element melts the insulation and shorts everything out. It's obvious if this is the problem, the wiring will be melted, the fuse is probably fine (mine was). You cannot solder the wires back together, the heating element gets hotter than the melting point of the solder. You need to crimp everything back together and when you reassemble keep the wires away from the element.
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Just fixed mine with info found on hear. If you're a little handy or have someone who is it's a simple fix. Under bottom plate a thermal fuse is connected in black wire under white insulation. I picked one up at radio shack (http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=thermal%20fuse&origkw=thermal%20fuse&sr=1) got the 228 dgree C. I cut insulation and removed. I then cut black wire at connection at each side. I then placed new fuse in line and crimped small connectors on each side. Placed insulation back on and taped up. Screwed back together and it worked fine. Fuse cost $1.69. To think I almost tossed it.
The most common reason for not heating up is because of a blown thermal fuse. Apparently the controller lets the iron get too hot or the fuse is out of manufacturing tolerance - and so the fuse opens. This waffle maker has two lamps. On mine, the red lamp stays on as long as it is plugged in and switched on. The green lamp is normally lit when the relay is off and dark when the relay is on. When the waffle maker is cold, the relay normally turns on within a second of power-up (switched on). During power-up, the green (ready) lamp should flicker on, and then as the relay clicks, go dark. If the green (ready) lamp does not flicker, the fuse is probably blown. A replacement fuse (240°C) can be purchased from many sources (Google search). The fuse is clamped inside the bottom clamshell in silicon tubing. Do not damage this tubing. Remove the clamp over the silicon tubing. Slide the tubing to the side and cut the stranded wire close to the fuse. Remove the tubing and cut the other stranded wire close to the fuse. Be careful not to nick the wire when you strip off insulation. The fuse should be re-attached to the wires with new all-metal crimp fasteners. Don't forget to reinstall the silicon tubing before you crimp! Tighten the clamp over the fuse (inside the tubing). You can get the crimp tool at hardware stores, Radio Shack, Lowes, etc. If the "iron" is getting too hot and blowing thermal fuses, you may be able to avoid this failure by keeping the thermostat set lower.
OMG when you remove the top aluminum cover DO NOT put your finger under it to lift it off. The top is made of STAMPED aluminum and the edge is RAZOR SHARP! The thermal fuse is not always the problem, the problem is the lack of care assembling the wiring to the inner heating element. The insulated wiring when assembled is touching THE HEATING ELEMENT and the heating element melts the insulation and shorts everything out. It's obvious if this is the problem, the wiring will be melted, the fuse is probably fine (mine was). You cannot solder the wires back together, the heating element gets hotter than the melting point of the solder. You need to crimp everything back together and when you reassemble keep the wires away from the element.