It is possible that he had a turbo on it and took it off before he sold it to you and never put the old configs back into the fuel management system.

From what I am hearing, the idle sounds like it could be from the removal of the "honeycombs" in the maf. If that's the case, you can use the programmer to add a little more fuel in at idle and that should take care of it.... At least that's what the guys at Road Race engineering say. They also used a SAFC and a 16g turbo as well, so.... there you go. It could be throwing too much fuel in also... Hard to say.

The mid-range problem, that's usually the range where a turbo would spool-up, so it's probably pushing tooo much fuel into the car, so it needs to be turned down at those speeds.

The only thing I am seeing is that all the signs that there was a turbo on it are there, i would say just take the fuel controller out, but that could present a problem if there were bigger injectors put on it, which there probably were.


You should probably get it tuned if you don't know how. If you try it yourself.... there are usually 2 fuel curves in a fuel contoller. One for low throttle (idle, once you get up to speed on the freeway) and one for when you are accelerating (like when you mash the gas and don't go anywhere on the freeway).

If you have an exhaust gas temp gauge, watch it while you are messing with things, anything over 900 deg. is bad! At least I think it's 900, anybody got anything else?

You have a MAP sensor, a TPS and a cam position sensor on the motor. The stuttering and surging sounds like the TPS. That was what was wrong with mine. I feel your pain with the redneck engineering. The guy I bought my car from did a crappy job of putting a turbo in and now I am in the middle of tearing it apart to fix all his screw ups.

To check your TPS do the following:
Disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS on the backside of the throttle body.
Connect an ohm meter between terminals 1 and 3 on the tps
Your resistance should be between 3.5 and 6.5K Ohms.
Then put your ohm meter leads on terminals 2 and 3
Slowly move the throttle from fully closed to fully open. THe resistance should stay between the limits through the entire motion. If it does not change or exceeds the limits replace it.

I have also been finding a lot of stupid wiring problems with mine. Like the Cam position sensor in the head. The plug was not making good contact with the sensor.

Check your MAP sensor like this (located on opposite end of intake manifold from the throttle body).
The terminals in the plug are configured in a triangle, put the single terminal at the bottom. The top two plugs are 1 and 2 from left to right as you look at the plug. Which of course makes 3 the single pin on the bottom
Disconnect the electrical connector from the MAP
Using a volt meter measure voltage between term 2 and ground, there should be between 4.7 and 5.2 volts present. If no voltage is present look for blown fuses and check your wires. If all that looks good have your PCM (computer) checked out.
Check the ground side with an ohm meter from terminal 1 to ground. You should have continuity.
If all that checks out then you MAP ias probably bad.

Hopefully it is one of those. They are expensive tho so make sure you check before you replace them.

Check the spark plugs and make sure they are the right application. You should be using NGK or NipponDenso. Did the engine run good before the belt was changed? Does the acceleration seem poor? Let me know and I'll see what other info I have on these.