what fuses are good? the glass fuse in your house fuse box, cause thats the only fuse involved in running this heater! Buzzing indicates transformer/spark plug ignition for your model, no fuses involved, only a circuit breaker. Stuck motor can be due to rotor/vanes interference like corrosion in pump housing.what fuses are good? the glass fuse in your house fuse box, cause thats the only fuse involved in running this heater! Buzzing indicates transformer/spark plug ignition for your model, no fuses involved, only a circuit breaker. Stuck motor can be due to rotor/vanes interference like corrosion in pump housing.
A bad motor start relay or inline motor capacitor can cause the motor to humm, 70K units and higher in DESA have such a device and should always be changed when you replace a motor. In the case of an inline motor start capacitor, it already comes wired into the replacement motor.A bad motor start relay or inline motor capacitor can cause the motor to humm, 70K units and higher in DESA have such a device and should always be changed when you replace a motor. In the case of an inline motor start capacitor, it already comes wired into the replacement motor.
Check if the fan spins when you plug it in. If the motor is sticking or binding up, the fan won't start spinning, and the pump won't operate, so the safety interlock will kick in shortly afterwards and shut it off again until you press the reset. The lubricant on the motor shaft tends to get thick in the cold (when you're most likely to need it, natch), and it could prevent it from spinning up.
Remove the housing and see that the fan spins freely. If no one's been in there and tried adjusting the rotor clearances (possibly too tightly), chances are the lubricant on the shaft has gummed up. Try some light lubricant on the fan side of the motor shaft, and check to see if it frees it up. The rear of the shaft is purportedlly permanently lubricated and not supposed to be re-oiled, but in my case, that was the part that caused the motor to stick in cold temperatures. When this first started happening, I used to help the motor get started by flicking the fan blade as I started it up, to get it spinning, airplane prop fashion. Once it got started it warmed up and spun normally.
Got tired of that routine and I opened up the unit, removing the pump assembly in the rear. After spraying some light lubricant like WD-40 at the center shaft, accessible with the air pump housing removed, the fan spun freely again regardless of temperature. The "proper" fix if you're to follow the instructions would be to replace the motor assembly, but if you check the price on it, you'll reconsider that.
So, first check if the fan spins freely by hand; if it doesn't, find out why. If it does, then you'll have to check the electrical connections and consider the possibility of a bad motor also.
Answers & Comments
Hi,
Check for power to fan motor.....if there is power and motor does not go then the motor is bad...
Here are a couple of tips that I wrote that tell you how to troubleshoot a Torpedo or Reddy heater...
Reddy Heater - Troubleshooting Torpedo Heaters
Torpedo Heater Pump Pressure Adjustment
heatman101
what fuses are good? the glass fuse in your house fuse box, cause thats the only fuse involved in running this heater! Buzzing indicates transformer/spark plug ignition for your model, no fuses involved, only a circuit breaker.
Stuck motor can be due to rotor/vanes interference like corrosion in pump housing.
A bad motor start relay or inline motor capacitor can cause the motor to humm, 70K units and higher in DESA have such a device and should always be changed when you replace a motor. In the case of an inline motor start capacitor, it already comes wired into the replacement motor.
Check if the fan spins when you plug it in. If the motor is sticking or binding up, the fan won't start spinning, and the pump won't operate, so the safety interlock will kick in shortly afterwards and shut it off again until you press the reset.
The lubricant on the motor shaft tends to get thick in the cold (when you're most likely to need it, natch), and it could prevent it from spinning up.
Remove the housing and see that the fan spins freely. If no one's been in there and tried adjusting the rotor clearances (possibly too tightly), chances are the lubricant on the shaft has gummed up.
Try some light lubricant on the fan side of the motor shaft, and check to see if it frees it up. The rear of the shaft is purportedlly permanently lubricated and not supposed to be re-oiled, but in my case, that was the part that caused the motor to stick in cold temperatures.
When this first started happening, I used to help the motor get started by flicking the fan blade as I started it up, to get it spinning, airplane prop fashion. Once it got started it warmed up and spun normally.
Got tired of that routine and I opened up the unit, removing the pump assembly in the rear. After spraying some light lubricant like WD-40 at the center shaft, accessible with the air pump housing removed, the fan spun freely again regardless of temperature.
The "proper" fix if you're to follow the instructions would be to replace the motor assembly, but if you check the price on it, you'll reconsider that.
So, first check if the fan spins freely by hand; if it doesn't, find out why. If it does, then you'll have to check the electrical connections and consider the possibility of a bad motor also.