Ok, this job is going to depend on how confident you are with doing this sort of thing.
What you will need:
Trolley jack and axle stands
Ring spanner set probably 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 and larger.
Brake pads
G-clamp or piston winding tool.
Sometimes a rubber mallet
Workshop radio
Good hand cleaner
Raise the car at the jacking points and secure safely on axle stands at manufacturers recommended points. (Be sure to "crack" lose the wheel nuts before lifting) Remove wheels.
Remove the caliper: It SHOULD be a single piston slide caliper. so remove the two bolts holding it on from the rear. They should be really tight so if you need to crack them with a mallet then carefully do so, making sure you are turning in the right direction. Not always a problem. The caliper should open with some persuasion enough to slide it off the disc. Be careful not to drop it as the brake line will stay connected. Inspect for any signs of fluid leaking from the line of around the dust boots.
Remove the Pads: The pads now should clip or slide out of the caliper casting. Note one of the pads should be fitted with a thin chrome metal piece, this is the audible wear indicator, this make the squealing sound to alert you before the pad gets down to metal, ruining your disc so note the order they come off to replace the news correctly.
Reset the piston: The piston will be out as to compensate for loss of material on the pads so this is where you need to push it back in. The G-clamp or piston tool needs to be used here to wind it back in. Now is a good time to add some grease to the two caliper slides.
Fit the new pads: Once the pistons are in, fit the new pads in the correct order and sliding them back into the caliper as far as possible, one bottoming out on the piston face and the other into the caliper casting on the other side making sure they don't bind in the casting. (If binding occurs, remover the pads and with a file, square up the channels in the caliper casting and reinstall making sure they slide in firmly but easily.)
Refit the caliper: Now Slide the caliper back over the disc and bolt it back up. Don't over tighten the caliper bolts. Its often a mistake made by new comers as no one wants the brakes to fall off but even if the bolts come loose, they shouldn't fall off and the caliper wont either. The bolts will expand with the temperature of the brake assembly, thus tightening. A hard/firm torque will be sufficient. Remember how hard it was to get them undone in the first place they will lock themsleves with heat?
After all that I just found this link with pics: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5142
Answers & Comments
Ok, this job is going to depend on how confident you are with doing this sort of thing.
- Trolley jack and axle stands
- Ring spanner set probably 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 and larger.
- Brake pads
- G-clamp or piston winding tool.
- Sometimes a rubber mallet
- Workshop radio
- Good hand cleaner
Raise the car at the jacking points and secure safely on axle stands at manufacturers recommended points. (Be sure to "crack" lose the wheel nuts before lifting)
What you will need:
Remove wheels.
Remove the caliper:
It SHOULD be a single piston slide caliper. so remove the two bolts holding it on from the rear. They should be really tight so if you need to crack them with a mallet then carefully do so, making sure you are turning in the right direction. Not always a problem. The caliper should open with some persuasion enough to slide it off the disc. Be careful not to drop it as the brake line will stay connected. Inspect for any signs of fluid leaking from the line of around the dust boots.
Remove the Pads:
The pads now should clip or slide out of the caliper casting. Note one of the pads should be fitted with a thin chrome metal piece, this is the audible wear indicator, this make the squealing sound to alert you before the pad gets down to metal, ruining your disc so note the order they come off to replace the news correctly.
Reset the piston:
The piston will be out as to compensate for loss of material on the pads so this is where you need to push it back in. The G-clamp or piston tool needs to be used here to wind it back in. Now is a good time to add some grease to the two caliper slides.
Fit the new pads:
Once the pistons are in, fit the new pads in the correct order and sliding them back into the caliper as far as possible, one bottoming out on the piston face and the other into the caliper casting on the other side making sure they don't bind in the casting. (If binding occurs, remover the pads and with a file, square up the channels in the caliper casting and reinstall making sure they slide in firmly but easily.)
Refit the caliper:
Now Slide the caliper back over the disc and bolt it back up. Don't over tighten the caliper bolts. Its often a mistake made by new comers as no one wants the brakes to fall off but even if the bolts come loose, they shouldn't fall off and the caliper wont either. The bolts will expand with the temperature of the brake assembly, thus tightening. A hard/firm torque will be sufficient. Remember how hard it was to get them undone in the first place they will lock themsleves with heat?
After all that I just found this link with pics:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5142
What do you mean how??????? if you dont know how to why r u trying. If you do something wrong and your brakes dont work, you will crash?????????