It looks like a mini XLR connection at the belt pack end, so that's easy. The cable goes to a connector block which looks like it is held together with two screws. Again, that should be fairly straightforward.
The other side of the block is the cable that goes up to the head set and boom mic. This looks a little trickier for a novice just because the mic capsule is small; the cable runs through a narrow diameter tube, and the cable routing involves heatshrink.
At a guess I'd say that the foam windshield will come off. There'll be a grub screw holding the collar in place.
Personally, I'd use a meter on continuity setting, upen up the XLR and connectors block, and test the two signal lines (pins 2 and 3 in the XLR) for a break. Fingers crossed it is in that section. Then replace that cable.
If it is in the boom arm section, and you feel confident dealing with threading the cable and using heat shrink then have a go. If not, take it to a Tech to avoid the risk of wrecking a great mic.
Answers & Comments
It looks like a mini XLR connection at the belt pack end, so that's easy. The cable goes to a connector block which looks like it is held together with two screws. Again, that should be fairly straightforward.
The other side of the block is the cable that goes up to the head set and boom mic. This looks a little trickier for a novice just because the mic capsule is small; the cable runs through a narrow diameter tube, and the cable routing involves heatshrink.
At a guess I'd say that the foam windshield will come off. There'll be a grub screw holding the collar in place.
Personally, I'd use a meter on continuity setting, upen up the XLR and connectors block, and test the two signal lines (pins 2 and 3 in the XLR) for a break. Fingers crossed it is in that section. Then replace that cable.
If it is in the boom arm section, and you feel confident dealing with threading the cable and using heat shrink then have a go. If not, take it to a Tech to avoid the risk of wrecking a great mic.