i bet its not leaking 9 of 10 people that think it is, are wrong.
gravity and windage effects fools us all.!!
a new valve cover gasket is first.
then new set of distributor seals, o-rings, that LOVE
to leak on all SUZUKI G series engines. 3 seals total.
2 top on distrib. and 1 at head/ dist. housing.
then give it a week to dip dry,, (from harnesses etc)
i guess you dont know the engine and trans-axle must be separated, to reach that point.
ok?
the car has a FSM , factory service manual, and covers this.
here are the words.
Removal & Installation follow these basic points: (not a list of every hose and wire!)
If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.
Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.
Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.
After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported.
If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.
When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.
Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.
After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.
After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine, as required.
Relieve the fuel system pressure on fuel injected vehicles.
Using a scratch awl, scribe the hood hinge-to-hood outline, then, using an assistant remove the hood.
Make a note of all radio pre-sets and the radio code.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system.
Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the radiator assembly along with the cooling fan.
Disconnect and tag all necessary electrical connections.
Disconnect and tag all necessary vacuum lines.
Disconnect, tag and plug all necessary fuel lines.
Disconnect the heater inlet and outlet hoses.
Disconnect the following cables:
The accelerator cable from the throttle body or carburetor.
The clutch cable from the transaxle (for manual transaxle models).
The gear select cable and the oil pressure control cable from the transaxle (for automatic transaxle models).
The speedometer cable from the transaxle.
Raise and safely support the vehicle safely.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Disconnect the gear shift control shaft and the extension to the transaxle for (manual transaxle models).
Drain the engine oil and transaxle oil.
Remove the drive axles from the differential side gears of the transaxle. For the engine/transaxle removal, it is not necessary to remove the drive axle from the steering knuckle.
Remove the engine rear torque rod bracket from the transaxle (for automatic transaxle models).
Lower the vehicle.
Install a suitable chain hoist to the lifting device on the engine.
Remove the right side engine mounting from its bracket.
On vehicles equipped with a automatic transaxle, remove the transaxle rear mounting nut.
On vehicles equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the transaxle rear mounting from the body.
Remove the transaxle left side mounting bracket.
Lift the engine and transaxle assembly out from the vehicle. Separate the transaxle from the engine.
or remove, the transaxle.
Removal & Installation
From the air cleaner, remove the air suction guide.
Disconnect both cables from the battery and the negative cable from the transaxle. Remove the battery and the battery tray.
From the transaxle, disconnect the solenoid coupler, the shift lever switch coupler and the wiring harness.
Separate the oil pressure control cable from the accelerator cable. From the transaxle, disconnect the accelerator cable and the shift selector cable.
Remove the starter motor. Place a catch pan under the transaxle and drain the fluid.
Disconnect and plug the oil cooler tubes at the transaxle.
Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the exhaust pipe and the lower clutch housing plate.
Before removing the torque converter-to-drive plate bolts, make alignment marks on the torque converter and drive plate for assembly purposes.
Using a prybar, insert it through the notch (underside of transaxle) to lock the drive plate gear. Remove the torque converter-to-drive plate bolts.
To remove the left halfshaft, perform the following procedures:
From the wheel hub, remove the center cap, the split pin and the driveshaft nut.
Remove the lug nuts and the front wheels.
Using a prybar, position it between the differential case and the halfshaft's inboard joint, pry the joint until the snapring disconnects from the side gear.
Remove both stabilizer bar-to-chassis brackets and the ball stud-to-steering knuckle bolt. Pull the stabilizer bar downward to disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Carefully remove the halfshaft from the differential case and the steering knuckle to prevent tearing the boots.
Using a prybar, disconnect the right halfshaft from the differential case.
Remove the transaxle mounting member bolts and the member. Using a floor jack and a piece of wood, support the transaxle.
Remove the left transaxle mount.
Remove the transaxle-to-engine bolts. Slide the transaxle from the engine (to prevent damaging the crankshaft, drive plate or torque converter) and lower it from the vehicle.
Answers & Comments
No year, but is G10 3cyl.
- If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.
- Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.
- Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.
- After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported.
- If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.
- When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.
- Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.
- After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.
- After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine, as required.
- Relieve the fuel system pressure on fuel injected vehicles.
- Using a scratch awl, scribe the hood hinge-to-hood outline, then, using an assistant remove the hood.
- Make a note of all radio pre-sets and the radio code.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system.
- Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the radiator assembly along with the cooling fan.
- Disconnect and tag all necessary electrical connections.
- Disconnect and tag all necessary vacuum lines.
- Disconnect, tag and plug all necessary fuel lines.
- Disconnect the heater inlet and outlet hoses.
- Disconnect the following cables:
- The accelerator cable from the throttle body or carburetor.
- The clutch cable from the transaxle (for manual transaxle models).
- The gear select cable and the oil pressure control cable from the transaxle (for automatic transaxle models).
- The speedometer cable from the transaxle.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle safely.
- Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
- Disconnect the gear shift control shaft and the extension to the transaxle for (manual transaxle models).
- Drain the engine oil and transaxle oil.
- Remove the drive axles from the differential side gears of the transaxle. For the engine/transaxle removal, it is not necessary to remove the drive axle from the steering knuckle.
- Remove the engine rear torque rod bracket from the transaxle (for automatic transaxle models).
- Lower the vehicle.
- Install a suitable chain hoist to the lifting device on the engine.
- Remove the right side engine mounting from its bracket.
- On vehicles equipped with a automatic transaxle, remove the transaxle rear mounting nut.
- On vehicles equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the transaxle rear mounting from the body.
- Remove the transaxle left side mounting bracket.
- Lift the engine and transaxle assembly out from the vehicle. Separate the transaxle from the engine.
- From the air cleaner, remove the air suction guide.
- Disconnect both cables from the battery and the negative cable from the transaxle. Remove the battery and the battery tray.
- From the transaxle, disconnect the solenoid coupler, the shift lever switch coupler and the wiring harness.
- Separate the oil pressure control cable from the accelerator cable. From the transaxle, disconnect the accelerator cable and the shift selector cable.
- Remove the starter motor. Place a catch pan under the transaxle and drain the fluid.
- Disconnect and plug the oil cooler tubes at the transaxle.
- Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the exhaust pipe and the lower clutch housing plate.
- Using a prybar, insert it through the notch (underside of transaxle) to lock the drive plate gear. Remove the torque converter-to-drive plate bolts.
- To remove the left halfshaft, perform the following procedures:
- From the wheel hub, remove the center cap, the split pin and the driveshaft nut.
- Remove the lug nuts and the front wheels.
- Using a prybar, position it between the differential case and the halfshaft's inboard joint, pry the joint until the snapring disconnects from the side gear.
- Remove both stabilizer bar-to-chassis brackets and the ball stud-to-steering knuckle bolt. Pull the stabilizer bar downward to disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
- Carefully remove the halfshaft from the differential case and the steering knuckle to prevent tearing the boots.
- Using a prybar, disconnect the right halfshaft from the differential case.
- Remove the transaxle mounting member bolts and the member. Using a floor jack and a piece of wood, support the transaxle.
- Remove the left transaxle mount.
- Remove the transaxle-to-engine bolts. Slide the transaxle from the engine (to prevent damaging the crankshaft, drive plate or torque converter) and lower it from the vehicle.
engine mains rear seals.
i bet its not leaking 9 of 10 people that think it is, are wrong.
gravity and windage effects fools us all.!!
a new valve cover gasket is first.
then new set of distributor seals, o-rings, that LOVE
to leak on all SUZUKI G series engines. 3 seals total.
2 top on distrib. and 1 at head/ dist. housing.
then give it a week to dip dry,, (from harnesses etc)
i guess you dont know the engine and trans-axle must be separated, to reach that point.
ok?
the car has a FSM , factory service manual, and covers this.
here are the words.
Removal & Installation
follow these basic points: (not a list of every hose and wire!)
or remove, the transaxle.
Removal & Installation
Before removing the torque converter-to-drive plate bolts, make alignment marks on the torque converter and drive plate for assembly purposes.
end quotes.
Duplicate