I have a Haywood H-250 propane pool heater. I can't get the pilot to stay lit. I change the millvolt thermal coupler and the gas valve. the pilot still will not stay lit. Could I have the gas valve wired worng? The old gas valve had 4 terminals and wires. The new one has 3 terminals. new (TH-PP & TH PP) Were do the thermal couple wires connect?
Pool & Spa - Hayward - 250kbtu Ng Pool Heater - Inground
this is the owners manual for the product your describing a problem with the wiring this includes an exploded view and labeling so you know what exactly each wire and part is doing what thereby finding exactly which component is causing the issue if you end up needing any assistance finding parts for this model we can also help with that
The procedure of the working unit is as follows:--When you're pressing the pilot button for those 30 -40 seconds, prior to switching the valve to "on", the pilot flame is heating what's called the thermocouple. This little device takes that thermal energy and turns it into the milivolts required to run the heater. If it's working, that's what happens. But in your case it’s not working. ·Either the thermocouple isn't producing juice or the contacts on the valve from the thermocouple are corroded. It's one of the two. ·When the thermocouple is giving the gas valve power, it powers a small valve to stay in the open position for the pilot feed. Giving gas to the pilot head and thus keeping the flame lit, when you turn the gas valve to "on". No power, no gas to pilot. It goes out. It's a safety device so that in the event of a flame out, the gas shuts off. To fix this problem Follow this procedure as follows:--- ·1) The pilot head may be slightly plugged up. Is the flame hitting the thermocouple? (Brass colored tube to the left of the flame that's vertical). If it's not, take a long handled screw driver and give the pilot head a few taps to dislodge the obstruction. Still not hitting the thermocouple? Get a service guy in to do a full cleaning. It may be due for one anyway. ·2)There are two wires wrapped around the gas pipe to the pilot. One red, the other an off white. Follow them up to the terminal block on the gas valve. You'll need a small flat head screw driver to lose the screws they attach at. Tag them as to where they go, remove those two wires and sandpaper the connectors on the end. Replace and tighten down the screws. Try lighting again. Still no go? Then the thermocouple is history. It's not uncommon. It requires removing the burner tray by undoing the union that the original gas fitter put in, to pull the tray out to get that new thermocouple in. It's possible to do it without going that route, but frustrating as hell, as the thermocouple is likely rusted in place and there's no room to move. Hopefully it was just a corroded contact and you can get it fixed by just cleaning the connections. Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
THANK YOU FOR THE IN SIGHT. BUT IF YOU WOULD OF TAKEN THE TIME TO READ WHAT I WROTE. YOU WOULD OF ALREADY KNOWN THAT I CHANGED THE GAS VALVE AND THE THERMOCOUPLER.
I ALREADY DID THE USUAL CLEANING AND TAPPING AND TROUBLESHOOTING.
THE NEW GAS VALVE IS A HONEYWELL AND IT IS DIFFERENT THEN THE ORIGNAL VALVE.
THE OLD VALVE HAD FOUR TERMINALS, WHICH I MARKED. THE NEW VALVE ONLY HAS 3 TERMINALS. I THINK I MIGHT HAVE THE VALVE WIRED WRONG. DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW THE VALVE IS WIRED. THERMOCOUPLER IS RED & WHITE THEN 2 WIRES THAT MAKE UP THE CIRCUIT THROUGHT THE SAFETYS.
ANY HELP IS STILL WELCOME.THANK YOU FOR THE IN SIGHT. BUT IF YOU WOULD OF TAKEN THE TIME TO READ WHAT I WROTE. YOU WOULD OF ALREADY KNOWN THAT I CHANGED THE GAS VALVE AND THE THERMOCOUPLER. I ALREADY DID THE USUAL CLEANING AND TAPPING AND TROUBLESHOOTING. THE NEW GAS VALVE IS A HONEYWELL AND IT IS DIFFERENT THEN THE ORIGNAL VALVE. THE OLD VALVE HAD FOUR TERMINALS, WHICH I MARKED. THE NEW VALVE ONLY HAS 3 TERMINALS. I THINK I MIGHT HAVE THE VALVE WIRED WRONG. DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW THE VALVE IS WIRED. THERMOCOUPLER IS RED & WHITE THEN 2 WIRES THAT MAKE UP THE CIRCUIT THROUGHT THE SAFETYS.
Answers & Comments
Http://www.haywardnet.com/products/Manuals/pdfs/Manual285.pdf
this is the owners manual for the product your describing a problem with the wiring this includes an exploded view and labeling so you know what exactly each wire and part is doing what thereby finding exactly which component is causing the issue if you end up needing any assistance finding parts for this model we can also help with that
hope this helps
Robb
The procedure of the working unit is as follows:-- When you're pressing the pilot button for those 30 -40 seconds, prior to switching the valve to "on", the pilot flame is heating what's called the thermocouple. This little device takes that thermal energy and turns it into the milivolts required to run the heater. If it's working, that's what happens.
But in your case it’s not working.
· Either the thermocouple isn't producing juice or the contacts on the valve from the thermocouple are corroded. It's one of the two.
· When the thermocouple is giving the gas valve power, it powers a small valve to stay in the open position for the pilot feed. Giving gas to the pilot head and thus keeping the flame lit, when you turn the gas valve to "on". No power, no gas to pilot. It goes out. It's a safety device so that in the event of a flame out, the gas shuts off.
To fix this problem Follow this procedure as follows:---
· 1) The pilot head may be slightly plugged up. Is the flame hitting the thermocouple? (Brass colored tube to the left of the flame that's vertical). If it's not, take a long handled screw driver and give the pilot head a few taps to dislodge the obstruction. Still not hitting the thermocouple? Get a service guy in to do a full cleaning. It may be due for one anyway.
· 2) There are two wires wrapped around the gas pipe to the pilot. One red, the other an off white. Follow them up to the terminal block on the gas valve. You'll need a small flat head screw driver to lose the screws they attach at. Tag them as to where they go, remove those two wires and sandpaper the connectors on the end. Replace and tighten down the screws. Try lighting again.
Still no go? Then the thermocouple is history. It's not uncommon. It requires removing the burner tray by undoing the union that the original gas fitter put in, to pull the tray out to get that new thermocouple in. It's possible to do it without going that route, but frustrating as hell, as the thermocouple is likely rusted in place and there's no room to move.
Hopefully it was just a corroded contact and you can get it fixed by just cleaning the connections.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
THANK YOU FOR THE IN SIGHT. BUT IF YOU WOULD OF TAKEN THE TIME TO READ WHAT I WROTE. YOU WOULD OF ALREADY KNOWN THAT I CHANGED THE GAS VALVE AND THE THERMOCOUPLER.
I ALREADY DID THE USUAL CLEANING AND TAPPING AND TROUBLESHOOTING.
THE NEW GAS VALVE IS A HONEYWELL AND IT IS DIFFERENT THEN THE ORIGNAL VALVE.
THE OLD VALVE HAD FOUR TERMINALS, WHICH I MARKED. THE NEW VALVE ONLY HAS 3 TERMINALS. I THINK I MIGHT HAVE THE VALVE WIRED WRONG. DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW THE VALVE IS WIRED. THERMOCOUPLER IS RED & WHITE THEN 2 WIRES THAT MAKE UP THE CIRCUIT THROUGHT THE SAFETYS.
ANY HELP IS STILL WELCOME.