I have an VDSC364 dual fuel open burner viking range and the front left burner will not click when turned on. The gas does come on. I replaced the igniter but there does not seem to be any current getting to the igniter. There is a green wire not attached to anything. Any suggestions?
Kitchen Ranges - Viking - VDSC365-6B Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range
ear clicking but there's no ignition.First thing to do in this case are the following observation checks which do not require any tools, instruments, or taking anything apart.
Check the spark color. A healthy ignition system will produce crisp blue sparks. A weak ignition system, on the other hand, will produce light blue, almost white sparks. The following two checks can be made by switching the suspected burner with a known operating burner:
Ignite the burner with a match to verify proper gas supply and air shutter adjustment. Make sure the flame is a clean blue flame, not yellow and sooty.
The gap between the ignitor and the burner base is too large. It should be about the thickness of two dimes.
Gookus is caked on the ignitor or burner base. Clean the burner caps, heads, flame spreaders, ignitors...that whole area. HINT: do not use stuff like Comet because you'll gunk everything up big time. Warm water and Basic-H are a good choice.
These following two checks are done by physical inspection "under the hood":
Loose wiring connections at the ignitor, the grounding strap, or spark module.
Broken or pinched ignitor wire between the burner and module.
Check the spark frequency. Say what? A healthy spark system will crank out three to five sparks per second. If yours is a lot slower than this, then the prime suspect is reverse polarity at the 120vac outlet the range is plugged into. The picture below shows a 120vac outlet with the proper polarity.
You hear clicking but it's erratic.This is usually a bad spark module. But first, verify that the outlet polarity is correct before you change the module.This flow chart gives you further guidance on troubleshooting erratic spark problems.
You don't have ignition and you don't even hear clicking.:-First, verify that the spark module is getting the 120v on terminal L when you turn on any one of the surface switches. If it is, and still no spark, that module is dead--replace it.
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If 3 of the 4 burners light, but the 4th burner just clicks with no ignition, then make sure that the valve is completely clear of any debris that could be blocking the flow of gas.Also check and make sure the igniter is giving off spark. Make sure while you are cleaning, that you did not accidentally bend the position of the ignitor too far away from the gas exit valve.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciationIf 3 of the 4 burners light, but the 4th burner just clicks with no ignition, then make sure that the valve is completely clear of any debris that could be blocking the flow of gas.Also check and make sure the igniter is giving off spark. Make sure while you are cleaning, that you did not accidentally bend the position of the ignitor too far away from the gas exit valve. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation
Answers & Comments
ear clicking but there's no ignition.First thing to do in this case are the following observation checks which do not require any tools, instruments, or taking anything apart.
- Check the spark color. A healthy ignition system will produce crisp blue sparks. A weak ignition system, on the other hand, will produce light blue, almost white sparks. The following two checks can be made by switching the suspected burner with a known operating burner:
- Ignite the burner with a match to verify proper gas supply and air shutter adjustment. Make sure the flame is a clean blue flame, not yellow and sooty.
- The gap between the ignitor and the burner base is too large. It should be about the thickness of two dimes.
- Gookus is caked on the ignitor or burner base. Clean the burner caps, heads, flame spreaders, ignitors...that whole area. HINT: do not use stuff like Comet because you'll gunk everything up big time. Warm water and Basic-H are a good choice.
These following two checks are done by physical inspection "under the hood":
- Loose wiring connections at the ignitor, the grounding strap, or spark module.
- Broken or pinched ignitor wire between the burner and module.
- Check the spark frequency. Say what? A healthy spark system will crank out three to five sparks per second. If yours is a lot slower than this, then the prime suspect is reverse polarity at the 120vac outlet the range is plugged into. The picture below shows a 120vac outlet with the proper polarity.
You hear clicking but it's erratic.This is usually a bad spark module. But first, verify that the outlet polarity is correct before you change the module.This flow chart gives you further guidance on troubleshooting erratic spark problems.
You don't have ignition and you don't even hear clicking.:-First, verify that the spark module is getting the 120v on terminal L when you turn on any one of the surface switches. If it is, and still no spark, that module is dead--replace it.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation
If 3 of the 4 burners light, but the 4th burner just clicks with no ignition, then make sure that the valve is completely clear of any debris that could be blocking the flow of gas.Also check and make sure the igniter is giving off spark. Make sure while you are cleaning, that you did not accidentally bend the position of the ignitor too far away from the gas exit valve.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation