John 224 or anyone Help.Low Nox RP 2100Some of the burner orifices (jets???) seem to be clogged. A previous service tech, used a tie down cable (2" piece plastic with serrated teeth) to clean out cob webs. If i pass the tie down cable in front of the jet, while the heater is running, there is no pressure emitting from a few of the jets. (space between front of burner tray and burner {3-BB in Raypack exploded diagram}) I'm not sure where the tech was cleaning the cob webs out from. I'm not sure if it was the burner (the tie down cable would appear too small for this) or the circumference of space surrounding the jet itself (not the spacing between the front of burner tray and burner) but the finger space surrounding the jet if you stick your hand in there under the sheet metal encasing.Help me. The tech showed me how to do it a couple years ago, but i had the money THEN to pay him, so i only half paid attention. Now, i NEED to fix this myself.Is the jet (John224 referred to) the same as the orifice?Couple questions: Can these jets be cleaned? If so ...how. (i was going to try to stick a pin in the small jet opening (not sure this is a good idea), is this a bad idea?)Are the jets not working because there could be blokage in burner tubes. i.e. Is there a sensor, that shuts down the jet, if blockage is detected??I stuck the tie down cable in the burner tube and did not notice any blockage or retract any cobweb. That was b4 i saw your solution, i am going to get a 30 in 10 gauge wire and do as John224 instructed.ANY advice Thanks for your help
Pool & Spa - Raypak - Rp2100 Pool & Spa Heater Lonox 407k Btu Natural Gas Polymer...
Jets/orrifices are the same thing. They screw into your manifold and blow the fuel into the burner ribbon picking up air and mixing in the ribbon as they go. If you notice that some of the ribbons have no flame on top of them you know the jet(s) are blocked.
Spiders like to nest in them. Unlike a cob web, pollen or other debris, the spider nest is very sticky. You have to remove it manually from the jet. You can try to stick an object in thru the opening that the fuel comes out of. Do so with the heater off. All you will do is poke holes thru the nest but that is sometimes enough.
To get rid of the issue all together you need to back the jet out of the manifold. They are threaded into place with standard right-hand threads. When viewed from outside the heater though it will appear that you are tightening them as you wrench on them.
Once they are pulled out it will be obvious what you need to clean out of them. I use a small pocket screwdriver. An allen wrench works well to. Remove the next and thread them back into place. You do not use any pipe dope or sealant on the threads; just tighten them back down as you go and you should be all set.
Please consider re-rating this answer if it helps. If not, please add additional comments with what issues you still have.
The jets either work or they are blocked to the point that gas cannot get thru. The way to tell is examining your flames across the burners. They should be bright blue with very little if any orange and should stand 3-4 inches above the burners.
Do not wory about debris in the tubes; if they clog repeatedly, simply un-thread them from the manifold using a box wrench. I have a couple of stubby ones (7/16-9/16) which helps but standard ones can get the job done. Follow what I posted before about switching off the heater either on the control panel or the valve and then clean them out.
Your formula is correct. If you have a 405K model that actual output (you have some loss of heat thru the heater that never makes it into the water) is about 399K. Your gallons should be about 570 in the spa. Are you valving the water to all reeturn to the spa and then it cascades over a surface into the pool or does some of the water return to the pool? You should be seeing very fast temp rise with that small a spa and that big a heater.
Some common issues relating to heat loss are sooting of the exchanger and poor gas pressure due to issues in the supply or improper line size. A 405K heater requires a rather large supply line. The further the run of pipe the larger it needed to be.The jets either work or they are blocked to the point that gas cannot get thru. The way to tell is examining your flames across the burners. They should be bright blue with very little if any orange and should stand 3-4 inches above the burners. Do not wory about debris in the tubes; if they clog repeatedly, simply un-thread them from the manifold using a box wrench. I have a couple of stubby ones (7/16-9/16) which helps but standard ones can get the job done. Follow what I posted before about switching off the heater either on the control panel or the valve and then clean them out. Your formula is correct. If you have a 405K model that actual output (you have some loss of heat thru the heater that never makes it into the water) is about 399K. Your gallons should be about 570 in the spa. Are you valving the water to all reeturn to the spa and then it cascades over a surface into the pool or does some of the water return to the pool? You should be seeing very fast temp rise with that small a spa and that big a heater. Some common issues relating to heat loss are sooting of the exchanger and poor gas pressure due to issues in the supply or improper line size. A 405K heater requires a rather large supply line. The further the run of pipe the larger it needed to be.
Answers & Comments
Jets/orrifices are the same thing. They screw into your manifold and blow the fuel into the burner ribbon picking up air and mixing in the ribbon as they go. If you notice that some of the ribbons have no flame on top of them you know the jet(s) are blocked.
Spiders like to nest in them. Unlike a cob web, pollen or other debris, the spider nest is very sticky. You have to remove it manually from the jet. You can try to stick an object in thru the opening that the fuel comes out of. Do so with the heater off. All you will do is poke holes thru the nest but that is sometimes enough.
To get rid of the issue all together you need to back the jet out of the manifold. They are threaded into place with standard right-hand threads. When viewed from outside the heater though it will appear that you are tightening them as you wrench on them.
Once they are pulled out it will be obvious what you need to clean out of them. I use a small pocket screwdriver. An allen wrench works well to. Remove the next and thread them back into place. You do not use any pipe dope or sealant on the threads; just tighten them back down as you go and you should be all set.
Please consider re-rating this answer if it helps. If not, please add additional comments with what issues you still have.
John
The jets either work or they are blocked to the point that gas cannot get thru. The way to tell is examining your flames across the burners. They should be bright blue with very little if any orange and should stand 3-4 inches above the burners.
Do not wory about debris in the tubes; if they clog repeatedly, simply un-thread them from the manifold using a box wrench. I have a couple of stubby ones (7/16-9/16) which helps but standard ones can get the job done. Follow what I posted before about switching off the heater either on the control panel or the valve and then clean them out.
Your formula is correct. If you have a 405K model that actual output (you have some loss of heat thru the heater that never makes it into the water) is about 399K. Your gallons should be about 570 in the spa. Are you valving the water to all reeturn to the spa and then it cascades over a surface into the pool or does some of the water return to the pool? You should be seeing very fast temp rise with that small a spa and that big a heater.
Some common issues relating to heat loss are sooting of the exchanger and poor gas pressure due to issues in the supply or improper line size. A 405K heater requires a rather large supply line. The further the run of pipe the larger it needed to be.
Not to be a pest, but re-rating the answer would be appreciated :-)