Yup, that's correct. The capacitors are very cheaply made. I recommend replacing them all if applicable. Before replacing them you must allow the capacitors to discharge. You can just unplug the monitor for a few days. A manual way is possible. I will explain that in the lower portion of this post.
Remove the screws on the bottom edge on the screen. When the bezel screws are out place your fingers on the top edge on the bezel and press down towards the desk/table. The bezel should slide down and off almost like a PC side panel.
Remove the screws from the LCD pane and place masking tape around the edges of the LCD panel. These edges are crudely cut and are razor sharp.
Once taped pull the panel upward slowly. Note the three cables connecting the panel to the metal box behind it. These cables are the sync/video and CCFL cables. 5 connectors in total must be carefully removed with needle nose pliers.
Once the panel is removed, remove the screws from the metal box housing the power converter and LCD driver. Inside are two separate boards. They are connected on the edge via a small socket/pin connector. Remove the screws holding the power converter PCB. (The one that connects to the power plug port.) (I must stress the importance as stated before. DO NOT remove anything until you allow ample time for capacitor charge to deplete. Or have discharged them manually.) Using an analog (Needle meter not digital) Volt meter set it to 50V or close to. Place both prongs on the corresponding pole of the capacitor. (One capacitor at a time) You will see the voltage spike then slowly decline. Once the current is at zero move on to the other capacitors.
The bad capacitors will have brownish matter oozing out. Use your discretion to replace the faulty capacitors. I'd suggest replacing them all. Before removing them note their polarity and capacitance.
Mine was also a capacitor problem..thanks to boxmodder above for pointing me to this. I ordered the caps from digikey.com and they came in about 3 days. You have to know a little bit about unsoldering and soldering but it is not very hard. I changed all the ones in the photo above as well as one larger and one smaller. Here is my order info: 1 - 100uf400v item num: 565-1489-md 12 - 470uf25v item num: 565-1677-nd (ordered extra in case, only needed 6) 3 - 220uf25v item num: 565-1954-nd (ordered extra, only needed one) soldered them in, and it works now. Total cost: $9.79. If yours is a cap problem like mine, it is work the time and money. cheers! and thanks.
Mine was a no image, but cfl lights up problem. The AP4511GM mosfets transistors in an sop8 package blew off the board or cratered. One had a pinhole in the package from overheating. They are on the underside of the switching power supply to the right , there are 4 of them. At $1.99 each on ebay, they are pretty cheap to replace. They are surface mount parts, so have a steady hand taking them off and putting them on.
I haved the same problem, it was not a capacitor problem, one of the lamps was burned so the protection circuit went off, thats why the monitor stays lit for a seconds and then its turn off... if you look closely there is image in the monitor but the lamps are off... if this is your case the solution is either buy a new inverter circuit board (expensive) or to try the solution that one of my co- workers and i find.
Goes like this.
Open the monitor and disarm everything so you can access to the four lamp conectors in the inverter board (its merged with the power source board so be carefull). After you identified the connectors you have to "trick" the circuit and make him "think" that all the lamps are working correctly. To do this just exchange the lamps connectors, instead of connecting 2 in each side, connect one and one.
Try combinations and the monitor should stay lit cause now the circuit will "Think" the two lamps are functioning properly.
Pros.- Give that monitor a hard time again!!!!! and save big bucks..!
Cons.- Cause it will be working with only one lamp the monitor migth look "Tinted" on red color, or maybe another color, or maybe just dark, by adjusting the color options you can minimize this almost to 0.
Warning..!.... this is a standalone solution, i dont know if there is a risk of any kind (but the monitor its been working normally for more than a month now)...
Either way buying the inverter board is expensive and maybe its better to just squezze the monitor with this solution until stops to work and then buy a new monitor.
Hope it worked for some of you...(and this could apply to other monitors because the basis of the operation are much alike)
Would you like to know more......? [email protected]
You have a set of bad capacitors on the invertor board. replace C209,C210,C211,C212,C223,C224 - 470uF 25V and C219 - 220uF nine out of then of monitor with this failure will work fine after this replacement, if not you have a failing CFL tube.
Answers & Comments
Yup, that's correct. The capacitors are very cheaply made. I recommend replacing them all if applicable. Before replacing them you must allow the capacitors to discharge. You can just unplug the monitor for a few days. A manual way is possible. I will explain that in the lower portion of this post.
Remove the screws on the bottom edge on the screen. When the bezel screws are out place your fingers on the top edge on the bezel and press down towards the desk/table. The bezel should slide down and off almost like a PC side panel.
Remove the screws from the LCD pane and place masking tape around the edges of the LCD panel. These edges are crudely cut and are razor sharp.
Once taped pull the panel upward slowly. Note the three cables connecting the panel to the metal box behind it. These cables are the sync/video and CCFL cables. 5 connectors in total must be carefully removed with needle nose pliers.
Once the panel is removed, remove the screws from the metal box housing the power converter and LCD driver. Inside are two separate boards. They are connected on the edge via a small socket/pin connector. Remove the screws holding the power converter PCB. (The one that connects to the power plug port.) (I must stress the importance as stated before. DO NOT remove anything until you allow ample time for capacitor charge to deplete. Or have discharged them manually.) Using an analog (Needle meter not digital) Volt meter set it to 50V or close to. Place both prongs on the corresponding pole of the capacitor. (One capacitor at a time) You will see the voltage spike then slowly decline. Once the current is at zero move on to the other capacitors.
The bad capacitors will have brownish matter oozing out. Use your discretion to replace the faulty capacitors. I'd suggest replacing them all. Before removing them note their polarity and capacitance.
Pictures:
Mine was also a capacitor problem..thanks to boxmodder above for pointing me to this. I ordered the caps from digikey.com and they came in about 3 days. You have to know a little bit about unsoldering and soldering but it is not very hard. I changed all the ones in the photo above as well as one larger and one smaller. Here is my order info: 1 - 100uf400v item num: 565-1489-md
12 - 470uf25v item num: 565-1677-nd (ordered extra in case, only needed 6)
3 - 220uf25v item num: 565-1954-nd (ordered extra, only needed one)
soldered them in, and it works now. Total cost: $9.79. If yours is a cap problem like mine, it is work the time and money.
cheers! and thanks.
Mine was a no image, but cfl lights up problem. The AP4511GM mosfets transistors in an sop8 package blew off the board or cratered. One had a pinhole in the package from overheating.
They are on the underside of the switching power supply to the right , there are 4 of them. At $1.99 each on ebay, they are pretty cheap to replace. They are surface mount parts, so have a steady hand taking them off and putting them on.
Might as well replace the capacitors too.
I haved the same problem, it was not a capacitor problem, one of the lamps was burned so the protection circuit went off, thats why the monitor stays lit for a seconds and then its turn off... if you look closely there is image in the monitor but the lamps are off... if this is your case the solution is either buy a new inverter circuit board (expensive) or to try the solution that one of my co- workers and i find.
Goes like this.
Open the monitor and disarm everything so you can access to the four lamp conectors in the inverter board (its merged with the power source board so be carefull). After you identified the connectors you have to "trick" the circuit and make him "think" that all the lamps are working correctly. To do this just exchange the lamps connectors, instead of connecting 2 in each side, connect one and one.
Cn = Connector CnL = Connector Lamp
Normal Tricked MFCB
Cn1 ------ CnL1 Cn1 ------ CnL1
Cn2 ------ CnL1 Cn2 ------ CnL2
Cn3 ------ CnL2 Cn3 ------ CnL2
Cn4 ------ CnL2 Cn3 ------ CnL1
Try combinations and the monitor should stay lit cause now the circuit will "Think" the two lamps are functioning properly.
Pros.- Give that monitor a hard time again!!!!! and save big bucks..!
Cons.- Cause it will be working with only one lamp the monitor migth look "Tinted" on red color, or maybe another color, or maybe just dark, by adjusting the color options you can minimize this almost to 0.
Warning..!.... this is a standalone solution, i dont know if there is a risk of any kind (but the monitor its been working normally for more than a month now)...
Either way buying the inverter board is expensive and maybe its better to just squezze the monitor with this solution until stops to work and then buy a new monitor.
Hope it worked for some of you...(and this could apply to other monitors because the basis of the operation are much alike)
Would you like to know more......? [email protected]
You have a set of bad capacitors on the invertor board.
replace C209,C210,C211,C212,C223,C224 - 470uF 25V
and C219 - 220uF
nine out of then of monitor with this failure will work fine after this replacement, if not you have a failing CFL tube.