A) FOLLOWING Anti-Static Precautions?
If you, or someone who had the board before you didn't, you can use it for a Frisbee now.

(WOW! Look at that thing GO!)

B) Processor installed with Heatsink, and fan hooked up; and Ram Memory installed -> ONLY; you should get BIOS Beep Codes, and maybe Error Codes; plus the BIOS Setup screen.
(Hooked to VGA monitor. No AGP graphics card used)

No?
Frisbee

C) Look at the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard.
(Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors to be exact)

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1284612

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lut7MX5Dd_A

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Can they be replaced?
Yes, the Capacitor Plague has been around for a LONG time, and is still affecting us today.
Need guidance in replacing? Post back in a Comment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/595

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqt?Keyword=Electrolytic+Capacitors&FS=True

You click IN the fields needed.
Leave alone;

1) Manufacturer: The one's presented are of Excellent quality.
2) Tolerance:
3) Product: The capacitor examples that will be shown, ARE of computer grade quality.

4) Operating Temperature Range:

Fields you NEED are the values of the capacitor, and style;

1) Capacitance: Look for -> uf ratings. uf = Microfarad

Capacitors on a personal computer's motherboard; are rated in Microfarads, ( uF), NOT Picofarads. (pF)

2) Voltage

3) Termination Style: -> Radial.
BOTH leads come out of the bottom,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

(Click on the second photo down on the right)

When you have clicked in each field, and clicked on the values, and style; then go to the left, or right side; underneath, and click on -
Apply Filters.

Let's use a 4.7uF / 16 Volt / Radial electrolytic capacitor for an example,

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqt?P=1z0wrjcZ1z0x565Z1z0z7l5&Keyword=Electrolytic+Capacitors&FS=True

Scroll down.
Look under -> Dimensions - to get the physical size you need.

D) Power Supply:
Whip out your multimeter, and with the Function knob set to DC Voltage, check the 3 main voltage power rails.
(If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line)

Check at the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.

I use a straightened out paperclip, and insert down into the back of the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
The BACK is where the wires go in.

The straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole, in the Back of the connector; and slides past the insulation of that wire. It MUST touch a metal terminal at the end of the wire.

Every wire going down into that ATX main power cable's connector; ends in a female Molex metal terminal.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volts.
Red wires are 5 Volts.
Yellow wires are 12 Volts.
Black wires are Ground wires.

ALL Orange wires end in ONE central pint in the Power Supply.
This is the 3.3 Volt power rail.
You can test ANY Orange wire, and test the entire 3.3 Volt power rail.

Same with the Red 5 Volt wires, and Yellow 12 Volt wires.
Pick one to test.

Paperclip in Positive socket hole, in 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
Plus paperclip in ANY Black wire socket hole.

3.3 Volt, 5 Volt, and 12 Volt wires are POSITIVE wires.

Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter touches Orange, OR Red, Or Yellow wire - paperclip.
Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches Black wire paperclip.

Worried about shock?
Naa.
The dangerous voltage is contained in the case of the Power Supply.
100 to 240 Volts AC.

The Power Supply converts this AC voltage into the low DC Voltages stated above.
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

NOT saying there may not be a spark!
Connect a wire to a flashlight battery, and touch it to the bulb, and there is gonna be a spark. Just the way electricity works.

This is why I suggest for those who are new at this; to have the Power Supply unplugged from power; and insert two straightened out paperclips, in the socket holes of the ATX main power cable's connector.

Then (Making sure they don't touch each other), plug the Power Supply into power, and touch the paperclips with the probe leads of the multimeter.

Tested 3.3 Volt power rail? (Orange wire)
Then unplug the Power Supply from power, and move the paperclip over to a Red wire socket hole.
Test for 5 Volts.

Same again for the 12 Volt power rail. (Yellow wire)

Or use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a test unit. Perhaps there is a working computer you can borrow one from.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

[Are you sure the Ram Memory is plugged in tightly? CANNOT just visually inspect. Remove, and reinstall to be SURE.

Are you sure the Ram Memory is the correct Frequency Rate?
('Speed')
Ram Memory typically operates at HALF of the Processor's Front Side Bus. (FSB) ]