My 88 Dodge 4 cylinder Manual 5sp regcab engine dies when I decellerate. Mostly when I have to engage the brakes and clutch at a sudden stop. Usually it will instantly restart. Other times it may take 20-30 tries. I can hear engine jump to another idle setting at a stand still--
The vehicle speed/distance sensor circuit is usually the culprit on these models. It is a balanced reed switch that is prone to breakage. The computer then guesses what the vehicle speed actually is. Turn the ignition key on,off,on,off,on again and the 'power limited' or 'check engine' light will flash the codes out in sequence. They are two digit codes so for instance, code 23 is flash,flash, pause, flash,flash,flash. This one usually won't turn on the power limited light but it will cause stalling at idle or coming to a stop. The other problem item could the MAP sensor, though without knowing those codes, it is my guess that the speed sensor is the place to start after checking the obvious items such as ignition and air filter condition, fuel filter condition and spark plug conditions. These four cylinder models used a Hall generator in the distributor - if it is getting weak - it will not send out good pulse trains to the computer and it will guess about Cylinder 1 location in its ignition map. Make sure you get the codes and match them up - there are plenty of resources out there if you Google the codes.
try on,off,on,off,on,off,on (3 times). The other possibility is that the light could be out - when you turn the key on, make sure the engine light comes on for at least two seconds as a bulb check. No light, bad bulb. Although it's a nuisance, you can plug into the logic module, though those early models needed a key for the DLC. It is OBD 1 and you need the key - if this trick fails again let me know, I can check my resources for another way to snag those codes. -AStry on,off,on,off,on,off,on (3 times). The other possibility is that the light could be out - when you turn the key on, make sure the engine light comes on for at least two seconds as a bulb check. No light, bad bulb. Although it's a nuisance, you can plug into the logic module, though those early models needed a key for the DLC. It is OBD 1 and you need the key - if this trick fails again let me know, I can check my resources for another way to snag those codes. -AS
Here are the codes: Make sure you cycle the key within five seconds three times.
Starts with with 88 (certain models) ends with 55 (end of test).
"88 - Start of Test 11 - No Distributor input signal 12 - Memory standby power loss 13 - MAP sensor vacuum curcuit 14 - MAP sensor electricla curcuit 15 - Vehicle speed/distance sensor curcuit 16 - Loss of Battery voltage 17 - Engine running too cold 21 - Oxygen sensor curciot 22 - coolant temperature sensor curcuit 23 - Throttle body temperature sensor curcuit 24 - Throttle position sensor curcuit 25 - Idle Speed Control motor driver circuit 26 - Peak injector current has not been reached 27 - Fuel injector control circuit 31 - Canister purge solenoid circuit 32 - EGR system 33 - A/C Clutch cutout relay circuit 34 - Speed control vacuum or vent control 35 - Idle switch curcuit or radiator fan control 36 - Air switching solenoid circuit 37 - Part throttle unlock solenoid driver circuit 41 - Charging system excess or lack of current 42 - Automatic shutdown relay driver circuit 43 - Ignition coil control circuit 44 - Battery Temperature sensor - high voltage 45 - Governor pressure solenoid circuit 46 - Battery voltage too high 47 - Battery voltage too low 51 - Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position 52 - Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position 53 - Module internal problem 55 - End of code output 62 - Emissions reminder 63 - EEPROM write denied 64 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure 65 - Power steering switch failure 71 - Auxiliary 5 volt supply output low 72 - Catalytic converter efficiency failureHere are the codes: Make sure you cycle the key within five seconds three times. Starts with with 88 (certain models) ends with 55 (end of test). "88 - Start of Test 11 - No Distributor input signal 12 - Memory standby power loss 13 - MAP sensor vacuum curcuit 14 - MAP sensor electricla curcuit 15 - Vehicle speed/distance sensor curcuit 16 - Loss of Battery voltage 17 - Engine running too cold 21 - Oxygen sensor curciot 22 - coolant temperature sensor curcuit 23 - Throttle body temperature sensor curcuit 24 - Throttle position sensor curcuit 25 - Idle Speed Control motor driver circuit 26 - Peak injector current has not been reached 27 - Fuel injector control circuit 31 - Canister purge solenoid circuit 32 - EGR system 33 - A/C Clutch cutout relay circuit 34 - Speed control vacuum or vent control 35 - Idle switch curcuit or radiator fan control 36 - Air switching solenoid circuit 37 - Part throttle unlock solenoid driver circuit 41 - Charging system excess or lack of current 42 - Automatic shutdown relay driver circuit 43 - Ignition coil control circuit 44 - Battery Temperature sensor - high voltage 45 - Governor pressure solenoid circuit 46 - Battery voltage too high 47 - Battery voltage too low 51 - Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position 52 - Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position 53 - Module internal problem 55 - End of code output 62 - Emissions reminder 63 - EEPROM write denied 64 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure 65 - Power steering switch failure 71 - Auxiliary 5 volt supply output low 72 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure
Answers & Comments
The vehicle speed/distance sensor circuit is usually the culprit on these models. It is a balanced reed switch that is prone to breakage. The computer then guesses what the vehicle speed actually is. Turn the ignition key on,off,on,off,on again and the 'power limited' or 'check engine' light will flash the codes out in sequence. They are two digit codes so for instance, code 23 is flash,flash, pause, flash,flash,flash. This one usually won't turn on the power limited light but it will cause stalling at idle or coming to a stop. The other problem item could the MAP sensor, though without knowing those codes, it is my guess that the speed sensor is the place to start after checking the obvious items such as ignition and air filter condition, fuel filter condition and spark plug conditions. These four cylinder models used a Hall generator in the distributor - if it is getting weak - it will not send out good pulse trains to the computer and it will guess about Cylinder 1 location in its ignition map. Make sure you get the codes and match them up - there are plenty of resources out there if you Google the codes.
try on,off,on,off,on,off,on (3 times). The other possibility is that the light could be out - when you turn the key on, make sure the engine light comes on for at least two seconds as a bulb check. No light, bad bulb. Although it's a nuisance, you can plug into the logic module, though those early models needed a key for the DLC. It is OBD 1 and you need the key - if this trick fails again let me know, I can check my resources for another way to snag those codes. -AS
Here are the codes: Make sure you cycle the key within five seconds three times.
Starts with with 88 (certain models) ends with 55 (end of test).
"88 - Start of Test
11 - No Distributor input signal
12 - Memory standby power loss
13 - MAP sensor vacuum curcuit
14 - MAP sensor electricla curcuit
15 - Vehicle speed/distance sensor curcuit
16 - Loss of Battery voltage
17 - Engine running too cold
21 - Oxygen sensor curciot
22 - coolant temperature sensor curcuit
23 - Throttle body temperature sensor curcuit
24 - Throttle position sensor curcuit
25 - Idle Speed Control motor driver circuit
26 - Peak injector current has not been reached
27 - Fuel injector control circuit
31 - Canister purge solenoid circuit
32 - EGR system
33 - A/C Clutch cutout relay circuit
34 - Speed control vacuum or vent control
35 - Idle switch curcuit or radiator fan control
36 - Air switching solenoid circuit
37 - Part throttle unlock solenoid driver circuit
41 - Charging system excess or lack of current
42 - Automatic shutdown relay driver circuit
43 - Ignition coil control circuit
44 - Battery Temperature sensor - high voltage
45 - Governor pressure solenoid circuit
46 - Battery voltage too high
47 - Battery voltage too low
51 - Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position
52 - Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
53 - Module internal problem
55 - End of code output
62 - Emissions reminder
63 - EEPROM write denied
64 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 - Power steering switch failure
71 - Auxiliary 5 volt supply output low
72 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure