After 8-10 months or so, my Mr Coffee ECMP50 died too. Both lights were blinking. The power light and the ready light were both blinking, not the buttons. Thankfully, this was an easy fix for my machine. The machine heats water with a heating block that is controlled with a thermisistor. For safety, the power to the heating coil goes through a Sefuse thermofuse on either lead. Thus, if the machine malfunctions and the heating block heats continuously, the fuses will cut the power when the temperature goes too high. In my case, the thermisistor was fine, and replacing the fuses solved the problem. I think the microcontroller senses a failure to increase temperature and blinks to show an error condition.
Here's how I repaired mine, keep in mind there is life and property threatening risks in opening your machine, and that the fault is caused by a safety fuse, which should never be bypassed or altered.
For dissassembly, you'll need to start out by taking the bottom panel off. This has two saftey screws. You can easily get a safety screw bit set at Harbor Freight or maybe NAPA. Some of the screws are also under the rubber feet. Pulling it off, you'll need to cut a plumbers tie and disconnect the drain tube. Next, you'll need to remove the top cover. There are screws around the outer underside where the espresso head is, and there are three screws way down inside. You'll need a really long small philips screwdriver for those. The side knob does pull straight off and isn't connected to anything underneath; it may require some jiggering with to get it off. If you need to get the button panel off to get the top off, there are two screws under the label. Just poke right through. It's a plastic panel and not connected to the lights. The metal is separate and doesn't need to come off.
Once you get the top off, the heating block is located in the center of the rear, hanging from a metal plate held in by four screws. All of the wire connectors have a rubber cover and a locking mechanism that you'll have to squeeze a button to remove the wires. You'll also need to disconnect one of the plastic hoses from the bottom. It is held in by a split pin inside a small plastic block.
On the side of the heating block are two metal plates securing the wires. These are clamping the safety fuses to the block. I just removed the plates, slid back the insulation, chopped out the old fuses, and put in new ones. Soldering them in will blow them, so wire crimps are used. The fuses are carried by Radio Shack in the drawer with regular overcurrent fuses where they keep electrical components. Keep in mind that different fuses for different temperatures are available. Mine was 190 C, 10A. Never use a higher rated fuse, as this is a safety device!
You might test your machine before reassembling it in order to check that the thermisistor isn't gone too. You can safely test it with a ohmmeter. It should read around 110K +- 10K. If you hit it with some ice, it should increase in resistance. Heat will make it decrease in resistance.
When reassembling, ensure that all the hoses get new plumber's ties to ensure no leaking, and don't forget that drain hose! Remember again, tampering with this may induce leaking next to line voltage electronics making a lethal hazard, or disable safety devices which may start fires!
I would suggest never leaving the machine on while not in use, as it puts wear on the heat block and fuses.
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I think the ECMP50 was designed at the equator. You see the two blinking lights when you attempt to operate the machine when it is cool. Simply shut the machine off, turn it back on and it will operate normally.
Ouch. When you turn the machine on do you let the lights flash for a while? Hopefully that will let the cold parts warm up. After that shutting it off, waiting a couple seconds and turning it back on "might" let it work properly. If they continue to blink I'm clueless of anything else to suggest. Sorry. Have you checked with the site where you purchased your machine about an exchange ...or checked with Mr. Coffee to see if they will swap it out? I tried the later they offered to exchange the pump machine (that you have) for a $25 steam machine. All heart ...and not a good business offer. Good luck.Ouch. When you turn the machine on do you let the lights flash for a while? Hopefully that will let the cold parts warm up. After that shutting it off, waiting a couple seconds and turning it back on "might" let it work properly. If they continue to blink I'm clueless of anything else to suggest. Sorry. Have you checked with the site where you purchased your machine about an exchange ...or checked with Mr. Coffee to see if they will swap it out? I tried the later they offered to exchange the pump machine (that you have) for a $25 steam machine. All heart ...and not a good business offer. Good luck.
When coffee spurts around the basket you may have old grounds where the basket holder goes. Each time you remove the grounds basket, clean well where you screw in the basket holder. That will ensure a clean seal next time you screw in the basket holder. Good luck. Thanks to systemloc for the above solution. That will also work for me to solve my leak problem. Sounds like I need new plumber ties in my old machine. Thanks also for the caution.When coffee spurts around the basket you may have old grounds where the basket holder goes. Each time you remove the grounds basket, clean well where you screw in the basket holder. That will ensure a clean seal next time you screw in the basket holder. Good luck. Thanks to systemloc for the above solution. That will also work for me to solve my leak problem. Sounds like I need new plumber ties in my old machine. Thanks also for the caution.
Answers & Comments
After 8-10 months or so, my Mr Coffee ECMP50 died too. Both lights were blinking. The power light and the ready light were both blinking, not the buttons. Thankfully, this was an easy fix for my machine. The machine heats water with a heating block that is controlled with a thermisistor. For safety, the power to the heating coil goes through a Sefuse thermofuse on either lead. Thus, if the machine malfunctions and the heating block heats continuously, the fuses will cut the power when the temperature goes too high. In my case, the thermisistor was fine, and replacing the fuses solved the problem. I think the microcontroller senses a failure to increase temperature and blinks to show an error condition.
Here's how I repaired mine, keep in mind there is life and property threatening risks in opening your machine, and that the fault is caused by a safety fuse, which should never be bypassed or altered.
For dissassembly, you'll need to start out by taking the bottom panel off. This has two saftey screws. You can easily get a safety screw bit set at Harbor Freight or maybe NAPA. Some of the screws are also under the rubber feet. Pulling it off, you'll need to cut a plumbers tie and disconnect the drain tube. Next, you'll need to remove the top cover. There are screws around the outer underside where the espresso head is, and there are three screws way down inside. You'll need a really long small philips screwdriver for those. The side knob does pull straight off and isn't connected to anything underneath; it may require some jiggering with to get it off. If you need to get the button panel off to get the top off, there are two screws under the label. Just poke right through. It's a plastic panel and not connected to the lights. The metal is separate and doesn't need to come off.
Once you get the top off, the heating block is located in the center of the rear, hanging from a metal plate held in by four screws. All of the wire connectors have a rubber cover and a locking mechanism that you'll have to squeeze a button to remove the wires. You'll also need to disconnect one of the plastic hoses from the bottom. It is held in by a split pin inside a small plastic block.
On the side of the heating block are two metal plates securing the wires. These are clamping the safety fuses to the block. I just removed the plates, slid back the insulation, chopped out the old fuses, and put in new ones. Soldering them in will blow them, so wire crimps are used. The fuses are carried by Radio Shack in the drawer with regular overcurrent fuses where they keep electrical components. Keep in mind that different fuses for different temperatures are available. Mine was 190 C, 10A. Never use a higher rated fuse, as this is a safety device!
You might test your machine before reassembling it in order to check that the thermisistor isn't gone too. You can safely test it with a ohmmeter. It should read around 110K +- 10K. If you hit it with some ice, it should increase in resistance. Heat will make it decrease in resistance.
When reassembling, ensure that all the hoses get new plumber's ties to ensure no leaking, and don't forget that drain hose! Remember again, tampering with this may induce leaking next to line voltage electronics making a lethal hazard, or disable safety devices which may start fires!
I would suggest never leaving the machine on while not in use, as it puts wear on the heat block and fuses.
Thanks for your question!
I'm sorry that you haven't received an answer yet.
The response rate on FixYa FREE questions is usually over 80%, but sometimes questions go un-answered when:
1. the question is unclear, incomplete, or poorly worded...
2. the question is mis-categorized - so the correct experts aren't viewing it...
3. the question requires an answer for something that cannot be explained online adequately...
4. specific training, tools, or equipment are required to avoid injury or death...
5. the Experts that are online simply don't have the resources to answer your question fully...
Please feel free to re-work your question if you feel one of these may be the reason.
Of course you are not required - but converting your question to a PAID one usually increases the reply rate as well.
Normal rates for FixYa are...
$ 9.99 answer for one question.
$12.99 Live Real-Time online chat or premium e-mail support.
$29.99 Live Real Time phone support
Sometimes FixYa will run specials for unlimited questions via monthly subscription or reduced rates for limited periods.
Consider the savings that can be had when an informed Expert can save you a $100 service call, or a $350 trip to the car dealership.
Your problem solved - guaranteed! Or your money back!!
If you don't want to pay - feel free to re-submit your question so it returns back to the top of the work queue if you still need help.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for helping with your FREE question
I think the ECMP50 was designed at the equator. You see the two blinking lights when you attempt to operate the machine when it is cool. Simply shut the machine off, turn it back on and it will operate normally.
Ouch. When you turn the machine on do you let the lights flash for a while? Hopefully that will let the cold parts warm up. After that shutting it off, waiting a couple seconds and turning it back on "might" let it work properly. If they continue to blink I'm clueless of anything else to suggest. Sorry. Have you checked with the site where you purchased your machine about an exchange ...or checked with Mr. Coffee to see if they will swap it out? I tried the later they offered to exchange the pump machine (that you have) for a $25 steam machine. All heart ...and not a good business offer. Good luck.
When coffee spurts around the basket you may have old grounds where the basket holder goes. Each time you remove the grounds basket, clean well where you screw in the basket holder. That will ensure a clean seal next time you screw in the basket holder. Good luck.
Thanks to systemloc for the above solution. That will also work for me to solve my leak problem. Sounds like I need new plumber ties in my old machine. Thanks also for the caution.