off sequence and I wasn't able to get a flashing "Engine light" to tell me the codes. Is there anything that maybe unplugged disallowing the codes to appear
Make sure that the 'check engine' or 'power limited' light comes on with the key on for 3 seconds. This means the light is working. If that fails, the light itself is bad or the connection is also bad.
Here are the codes: "88 - Start of Test 11 - No Distributor input signal 12 - Memory standby power loss 13 - MAP sensor vacuum curcuit 14 - MAP sensor electricla curcuit 15 - Vehicle speed/distance sensor curcuit 16 - Loss of Battery voltage 17 - Engine running too cold 21 - Oxygen sensor curciot 22 - coolant temperature sensor curcuit 23 - Throttle body temperature sensor curcuit 24 - Throttle position sensor curcuit 25 - Idle Speed Control motor driver circuit 26 - Peak injector current has not been reached 27 - Fuel injector control circuit 31 - Canister purge solenoid circuit 32 - EGR system 33 - A/C Clutch cutout relay circuit 34 - Speed control vacuum or vent control 35 - Idle switch curcuit or radiator fan control 36 - Air switching solenoid circuit 37 - Part throttle unlock solenoid driver circuit 41 - Charging system excess or lack of current 42 - Automatic shutdown relay driver circuit 43 - Ignition coil control circuit 44 - Battery Temperature sensor - high voltage 45 - Governor pressure solenoid circuit 46 - Battery voltage too high 47 - Battery voltage too low 51 - Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position 52 - Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position 53 - Module internal problem 55 - End of code output 62 - Emissions reminder 63 - EEPROM write denied 64 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure 65 - Power steering switch failure 71 - Auxiliary 5 volt supply output low 72 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure
If this test fails, remove the negative cable at the battery for at least 5 minutes (if your radio has a lock code, note it now) and power it back up. See if the truck behaves any differently: Sometimes these models need a reset and this may clear up the problem. Then try the key test again - though you may get no codes since the cable was disconnected, driving the vehicle again may set the code and you should be able to retrieve it. I suspect that the bulb may be bad, unless you didn't cycle the key enough times within the five second period.
This is the only thing that will prevent the codes from appearing on the panel. You don't have to ground any terminals to perform this test - it is specific to this manufacturer at the time.
Answers & Comments
Make sure that the 'check engine' or 'power limited' light comes on with the key on for 3 seconds. This means the light is working. If that fails, the light itself is bad or the connection is also bad.
Here are the codes:
"88 - Start of Test
11 - No Distributor input signal
12 - Memory standby power loss
13 - MAP sensor vacuum curcuit
14 - MAP sensor electricla curcuit
15 - Vehicle speed/distance sensor curcuit
16 - Loss of Battery voltage
17 - Engine running too cold
21 - Oxygen sensor curciot
22 - coolant temperature sensor curcuit
23 - Throttle body temperature sensor curcuit
24 - Throttle position sensor curcuit
25 - Idle Speed Control motor driver circuit
26 - Peak injector current has not been reached
27 - Fuel injector control circuit
31 - Canister purge solenoid circuit
32 - EGR system
33 - A/C Clutch cutout relay circuit
34 - Speed control vacuum or vent control
35 - Idle switch curcuit or radiator fan control
36 - Air switching solenoid circuit
37 - Part throttle unlock solenoid driver circuit
41 - Charging system excess or lack of current
42 - Automatic shutdown relay driver circuit
43 - Ignition coil control circuit
44 - Battery Temperature sensor - high voltage
45 - Governor pressure solenoid circuit
46 - Battery voltage too high
47 - Battery voltage too low
51 - Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position
52 - Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
53 - Module internal problem
55 - End of code output
62 - Emissions reminder
63 - EEPROM write denied
64 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 - Power steering switch failure
71 - Auxiliary 5 volt supply output low
72 - Catalytic converter efficiency failure
If this test fails, remove the negative cable at the battery for at least 5 minutes (if your radio has a lock code, note it now) and power it back up. See if the truck behaves any differently: Sometimes these models need a reset and this may clear up the problem. Then try the key test again - though you may get no codes since the cable was disconnected, driving the vehicle again may set the code and you should be able to retrieve it. I suspect that the bulb may be bad, unless you didn't cycle the key enough times within the five second period.
This is the only thing that will prevent the codes from appearing on the panel. You don't have to ground any terminals to perform this test - it is specific to this manufacturer at the time.
Turn key on --key off ---key on -- key off ---key on , then you should get the codes from the check engine light.