The DSI probably needs to be replaced. This DSI manual gives a great idea how your system works. You should consult the range tech sheet for exact specs. Direct Spark Ignition Manual Usually if a problem occurs after components heat up it turns out to be the control. You could get some Instant Freeze to check if the board is indeed overheating, you might even be able to isolate the bad component in the board if you had the time.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
I reviewed the comments you made for other experts - can you please reply with the exact model number of the unit so I can have a better understanding of the parts involved? This seems to be a flame sensor/thermopcouple problem - but having the exact model number will allow me to look up the expanded diagram to see what you're working with.
Let me Describe everything in Detail, so that you would be able to Fix this Problem.
Here are a few reasons why this may be occurring.
1. Defective Gas Valve Coil If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.
An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.
Recent Customer Symptoms: The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.
2. Defective Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor. If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.
Location: The thermal fuse is located in different locations according to the model and brand of dryer.
Solution: Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter. If it is open, it will need to be replaced.
3. Defective Thermostat The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.
The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.
There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.
4. Defective Flame Sensor The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a continuity check under room temperature.
Common Symptoms If the flame sensor is defective in the open position, the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started. However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite. In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of time
5. Defective Ignitor When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking. A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly. You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of resistance.
If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve coils that are defective.
If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.
If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective. The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats, limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
Let me know, if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
Thanks for your response!!
Let me Describe everything in Detail, so that you would be able to Fix this Problem.
Here are a few reasons why this may be occurring.
1. Defective Gas Valve Coil If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.
An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.
Recent Customer Symptoms: The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.
2. Defective Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor. If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.
Location: The thermal fuse is located in different locations according to the model and brand of dryer.
Solution: Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter. If it is open, it will need to be replaced.
3. Defective Thermostat The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.
The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.
There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.
4. Defective Flame Sensor The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a continuity check under room temperature.
Common Symptoms If the flame sensor is defective in the open position, the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started. However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite. In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of time
5. Defective Ignitor When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking. A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly. You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of resistance.
If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve coils that are defective.
If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.
If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective. The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats, limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
Answers & Comments
The DSI probably needs to be replaced. This DSI manual gives a great idea how your system works. You should consult the range tech sheet for exact specs. Direct Spark Ignition Manual Usually if a problem occurs after components heat up it turns out to be the control. You could get some Instant Freeze to check if the board is indeed overheating, you might even be able to isolate the bad component in the board if you had the time.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
I reviewed the comments you made for other experts - can you please reply with the exact model number of the unit so I can have a better understanding of the parts involved?
This seems to be a flame sensor/thermopcouple problem - but having the exact model number will allow me to look up the expanded diagram to see what you're working with.
Thanks!!
HI,
Kindly Answer the Below Questions :-
Disconnect the Power Supply for Few Minutes and then Turn the Unit ON.
1. Do you see any Error Message?
2.It Stops on Bake, Broil or Both?
3. Confirm Make, Model of the Gas Range?
4. How Old the Kitchen Range is?
Let me know, so that we could Proceed.
Thanks for your response!!
Let me Describe everything in Detail, so that you would be able to Fix this Problem.
Here are a few reasons why this may be occurring.
1. Defective Gas Valve Coil
If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.
An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.
Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.
2. Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor. If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.
Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according to the model and brand of dryer.
Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter. If it is open, it will need to be replaced.
3. Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.
The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.
There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.
4. Defective Flame Sensor
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a continuity check under room temperature.
Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position, the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started. However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite. In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of time
5. Defective Ignitor
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking. A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly. You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of resistance.
If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve coils that are defective.
If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.
If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective. The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats, limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
Let me know, if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
Thanks for your response!!
Oops. It seems that i have sent your Reply to other Customer.:(
Wow...That's a Good solution for Dryer :). Anyway, get back to Ovens.By the Explanation you gave, as per my experience,it could be 3 possibilities :-
1. Bad Igniter.
2. Faulty Thermostat.
3.Glow Coil and Gas Valve ( Less probability )
Check and let me know, so that we could proceed.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!