Hello harlydale In the fuse block below the inst. panel, there are two fuses for the blower moter, fuse#4 and #5 both are 15amp fuses. If the fuses are good, pull the yellow/blk wire from the the bl.moter and using a test wire ground the contact the yel/blk wire came from. If the blower works, replace the blower resistor assembly. It's located near the blower mtr. and has 4 wires from it, yel/blk- pnk/blu-brn-grn. Also make sure the key is on and the blower is on when you do these tests. Hope this helps.
The simplest place to start would be the fuses, and then the heater control switch. I believe there are only 4 screws that hold the face plate on over your controls. If you have a test light (they are cheap, it's a pointed probe on one end with a light bulb inside, and a wire with a clip on the end for "grounding"). Clamp the alligator clip end to a clean grounded metal surface in your van (Like the metal bolt under a seat that holds it in, or the frame it's bolted to...the seat pedestal) Touch the tip to the connections on the fan contacts that control the rear motor. First do it with the fan switch turned off. There should be at LEAST one that makes it light. Then turn the switch on. If you still have just the one contact (prong that leads into the switch plug) that lights the test light. Then you have power (electrical current) going into the switch and the fuse is good. And the switch is bad.
If you've never used a test light, try it on the battery to see what it's supposed to do. Always wear eye protection when near a car battery. Put the alligator clamp end on the negative side of the battery (usually a black wire, and a minus sign next to the post. Then touch the tip to the positive side and see if it lights. Then try putting the clip end on a clean metal surface to get the feel of it. That is the same "ground" as the negative on the battery.
Answers & Comments
Hello harlydale
In the fuse block below the inst. panel, there are two fuses for the blower moter, fuse#4 and #5 both are 15amp fuses. If the fuses are
good, pull the yellow/blk wire from the the bl.moter and using a test
wire ground the contact the yel/blk wire came from. If the blower works,
replace the blower resistor assembly. It's located near the blower mtr.
and has 4 wires from it, yel/blk- pnk/blu-brn-grn. Also make sure the key is on and the blower is on when you do these tests.
Hope this helps.
The simplest place to start would be the fuses, and then the heater control switch. I believe there are only 4 screws that hold the face plate on over your controls. If you have a test light (they are cheap, it's a pointed probe on one end with a light bulb inside, and a wire with a clip on the end for "grounding"). Clamp the alligator clip end to a clean grounded metal surface in your van (Like the metal bolt under a seat that holds it in, or the frame it's bolted to...the seat pedestal) Touch the tip to the connections on the fan contacts that control the rear motor. First do it with the fan switch turned off. There should be at LEAST one that makes it light. Then turn the switch on. If you still have just the one contact (prong that leads into the switch plug) that lights the test light. Then you have power (electrical current) going into the switch and the fuse is good. And the switch is bad.
If you've never used a test light, try it on the battery to see what it's supposed to do. Always wear eye protection when near a car battery. Put the alligator clamp end on the negative side of the battery (usually a black wire, and a minus sign next to the post. Then touch the tip to the positive side and see if it lights. Then try putting the clip end on a clean metal surface to get the feel of it. That is the same "ground" as the negative on the battery.
Hope that wasn't too much.