Seasmith1, I would suggest more details when you post....just to clarify what the problem is. I'm assuming this is 4wd? 1. You must remove the Hub to get to the rotor 2. Unbolt the 6- 12mm bolts and back them off to flush with the studs 3. Get a brass pipe or rod and bang the end of the stud/nut, 3 or 4 times, fairly hard, and the EVIL cone washers will come loose. Repeat on all studs/nuts until they're all loose, then carefully remove the outer hub from the rest of hub. 4. Remove snap rings, brake shoe and thrust plate in order to get to brake drum. The brake drum has 3- T20 Bit Screws in it which you will need a T20 Driver for. Remove that Drum to get to the Adjusting Nut which is a 53mm nut. I used a 54mm sunken open ended wrench/socket, turned the hub, thus, loosening the screw. (By the way, mine was hand turnable, check that first but plan on having something that fits it to tighten it. You can 'borrow' a bearing adjuster nut kit from most pep boys....also, you can push in the axle, CAREFULLY, in order to get a more shallow socket over it) 5, once you remove that nut, CAREFULLY pull the rotor off(hub attached) and do NOT let the outer bearing fall out on the ground/dirt/grass. 6. Remove outer Bearing, turn over and remove bearing seal(you will need a oil seal puller or use whatever method you want....They are 3$, just pull it, right?) 7. Remove inner bearing, then turn back over ( place 2- 4x4's on each side of hub under the disc area, placing inner bearing race side down, over a towel or something soft) and use brass shaft or heavy gauge pipe to tap out races(DO NOT use anything steel, Iron, etc., you will damage the housing, races and then, well, yer screwed.) Just tap from side to side, few pretty good raps each side, each time, until it falls out onto a TOWEL or something soft. 8. Turn over and repeat # 7 for outer bearing race. 9. You will HAVE to remove all of these items if you are wanting to have the rotor turned, also, you will have to remove the 14mm bolts(6 of them) holding the hub to the rotor. I placed the disc on the ground on a towel at an angle(resting on two lug studs at a time), put a 14mm, deep socket, 1/2'' drive on there and gave it a good whack, they came right loose, then repeated that step for all six, removed them, pulled out the hub, AND VOILA, you're off to the local parts store for disc turning.
I recommend, after all that work, replacing the rotors. They're on average 20-25$ each. Each Rotor turning will cost you a minimum of 13$......I mean, 14 more, total and you have new rotors.
DON'T FORGET; High Temp. Disc Brake bearing grease, bearing grease packing tool or gloves, LOTS of rags and paper towels, Disc Pads, Disc pad quiet(they usually give it to you but ASK), 53mm rental bearing nut socket, snap ring pliers(if you need them), brass staff or pipe(also carefully clean any brass flakes that might go flying and don't grease and install bearings until you do)
Answers & Comments
Seasmith1, I would suggest more details when you post....just to clarify what the problem is.
I'm assuming this is 4wd?
1. You must remove the Hub to get to the rotor
2. Unbolt the 6- 12mm bolts and back them off to flush with the studs
3. Get a brass pipe or rod and bang the end of the stud/nut, 3 or 4 times, fairly hard, and the EVIL cone washers will come loose. Repeat on all studs/nuts until they're all loose, then carefully remove the outer hub from the rest of hub.
4. Remove snap rings, brake shoe and thrust plate in order to get to brake drum. The brake drum has 3- T20 Bit Screws in it which you will need a T20 Driver for. Remove that Drum to get to the Adjusting Nut which is a 53mm nut. I used a 54mm sunken open ended wrench/socket, turned the hub, thus, loosening the screw. (By the way, mine was hand turnable, check that first but plan on having something that fits it to tighten it. You can 'borrow' a bearing adjuster nut kit from most pep boys....also, you can push in the axle, CAREFULLY, in order to get a more shallow socket over it)
5, once you remove that nut, CAREFULLY pull the rotor off(hub attached) and do NOT let the outer bearing fall out on the ground/dirt/grass.
6. Remove outer Bearing, turn over and remove bearing seal(you will need a oil seal puller or use whatever method you want....They are 3$, just pull it, right?)
7. Remove inner bearing, then turn back over ( place 2- 4x4's on each side of hub under the disc area, placing inner bearing race side down, over a towel or something soft) and use brass shaft or heavy gauge pipe to tap out races(DO NOT use anything steel, Iron, etc., you will damage the housing, races and then, well, yer screwed.) Just tap from side to side, few pretty good raps each side, each time, until it falls out onto a TOWEL or something soft.
8. Turn over and repeat # 7 for outer bearing race.
9. You will HAVE to remove all of these items if you are wanting to have the rotor turned, also, you will have to remove the 14mm bolts(6 of them) holding the hub to the rotor. I placed the disc on the ground on a towel at an angle(resting on two lug studs at a time), put a 14mm, deep socket, 1/2'' drive on there and gave it a good whack, they came right loose, then repeated that step for all six, removed them, pulled out the hub, AND VOILA, you're off to the local parts store for disc turning.
I recommend, after all that work, replacing the rotors. They're on average 20-25$ each. Each Rotor turning will cost you a minimum of 13$......I mean, 14 more, total and you have new rotors.
DON'T FORGET; High Temp. Disc Brake bearing grease, bearing grease packing tool or gloves, LOTS of rags and paper towels, Disc Pads, Disc pad quiet(they usually give it to you but ASK), 53mm rental bearing nut socket, snap ring pliers(if you need them), brass staff or pipe(also carefully clean any brass flakes that might go flying and don't grease and install bearings until you do)
Good luck, Seasmith!