THAT COULD BE SEVERAL DIFFERENT THINGS,IF THERES A BOTTOM PLATE YOU CAN REMOVE ,AND NOT ALL OF THEM HAVE THIS FEATURE,BUT IF THIS ONE DOES ,REMOVE IT AND VISUALLY INSPECT THE BOTTOM OF THE CIRCUIT AND LOOK FOR HOT SPOTS,PARTS OF THE BOARD WHICH APPEAR TO LOOK BURNT BECAUSE OF THE HEAT THAT IS GENERATED WHEN A SPECIFIC CIRCUIT IS EXCEEDING ITS LIMITS IN AMPERAGE DRAW.THE MORE AMPS THAT ARE BEING DRAWN,THE MORE HEAT THAT IS BEING GENERATED WHICH EVENTUALLY CAUSES THAT AREA TO DISCOLOR THE BOARD AND ALSO THE MAIN THING IT CAUSES THE SOLDER TO BECOME BRITTLE AND BREAKDOWN AND NOT BE CONNECTED ANYMORE.YOU CAN TAKE CARE OF THAT BY CLEANING THAT AREA WITH SOME ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL AND A SOFT TOOTHBRUSH.NOW IF YOU CAN SOLDER USE A 25 WATT SOLDERING IRON AND SOME ROSIN CORE SOLDER NOT ACID CORE SOLDER AND MELT SOME NEW SOLDER TO THAT SPECIFIC SOLDERING JOINT ,IT COULD BE ONE AND IT COULD BE 30,BUT DO ALL IN QUESTION ,LOOK OVER YOUR WORK,MAKE SURE THAT THERES NO SOLDER SLAG ANYWHERE,SOLDER THAT CAN DRIP OFF THE POINT OF OF SOLDER TIP AND SPLASH ON THE CIRCUIT AND SHORT OUT COMPONENTS.AFTER THATS DONE THEN PLUG IT BACK IN AND SEE IF THAT RIGHT CHANNEL IS WORKING AGAIN.YOU CAN CHECK THE DC OFFSET WITH A DIGITAL VOLTMETER SET ON THE 300MV RANGE AND WITH NO INPUTS ,YOU WANT TO CHECK THIS READING WITH THE AMPLIFIER BY ITSELF,NOTHING HOOKED UP TO IT.PUT THE RED LEAD ON THE POSITIVE OF THE RIGHT CHANNEL SPEAKER CONNECT AND THE BLACK LEAD ON THE RIGHT CHANNEL - SPEAKER CONNECT AND IT SHOULD READ ANYWHERE BETWEEN 1 AND 20MV,ILL EVEN SAY THAT IF ITS BETWEEN 20 AND 40MV YOURE OK BUTS THATS A LITTLE HI FOR AN AMPLIFIER IN IDLE MODE.WELL GOOD LUCK
This means the amplifier self is not defect. But one of the switches or electronic switches or relays can be defect or dirty. Try switching from and to direct source several times, to see if the switch can be engaged. If not, you need skills and tools to repair it yourself. Let alone ow to get to the spare parts you need. Perhaps a repair centre can help? (will cost though)
Answers & Comments
THAT COULD BE SEVERAL DIFFERENT THINGS,IF THERES A BOTTOM PLATE YOU CAN REMOVE ,AND NOT ALL OF THEM HAVE THIS FEATURE,BUT IF THIS ONE DOES ,REMOVE IT AND VISUALLY INSPECT THE BOTTOM OF THE CIRCUIT AND LOOK FOR HOT SPOTS,PARTS OF THE BOARD WHICH APPEAR TO LOOK BURNT BECAUSE OF THE HEAT THAT IS GENERATED WHEN A SPECIFIC CIRCUIT IS EXCEEDING ITS LIMITS IN AMPERAGE DRAW.THE MORE AMPS THAT ARE BEING DRAWN,THE MORE HEAT THAT IS BEING GENERATED WHICH EVENTUALLY CAUSES THAT AREA TO DISCOLOR THE BOARD AND ALSO THE MAIN THING IT CAUSES THE SOLDER TO BECOME BRITTLE AND BREAKDOWN AND NOT BE CONNECTED ANYMORE.YOU CAN TAKE CARE OF THAT BY CLEANING THAT AREA WITH SOME ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL AND A SOFT TOOTHBRUSH.NOW IF YOU CAN SOLDER USE A 25 WATT SOLDERING IRON AND SOME ROSIN CORE SOLDER NOT ACID CORE SOLDER AND MELT SOME NEW SOLDER TO THAT SPECIFIC SOLDERING JOINT ,IT COULD BE ONE AND IT COULD BE 30,BUT DO ALL IN QUESTION ,LOOK OVER YOUR WORK,MAKE SURE THAT THERES NO SOLDER SLAG ANYWHERE,SOLDER THAT CAN DRIP OFF THE POINT OF OF SOLDER TIP AND SPLASH ON THE CIRCUIT AND SHORT OUT COMPONENTS.AFTER THATS DONE THEN PLUG IT BACK IN AND SEE IF THAT RIGHT CHANNEL IS WORKING AGAIN.YOU CAN CHECK THE DC OFFSET WITH A DIGITAL VOLTMETER SET ON THE 300MV RANGE AND WITH NO INPUTS ,YOU WANT TO CHECK THIS READING WITH THE AMPLIFIER BY ITSELF,NOTHING HOOKED UP TO IT.PUT THE RED LEAD ON THE POSITIVE OF THE RIGHT CHANNEL SPEAKER CONNECT AND THE BLACK LEAD ON THE RIGHT CHANNEL - SPEAKER CONNECT AND IT SHOULD READ ANYWHERE BETWEEN 1 AND 20MV,ILL EVEN SAY THAT IF ITS BETWEEN 20 AND 40MV YOURE OK BUTS THATS A LITTLE HI FOR AN AMPLIFIER IN IDLE MODE.WELL GOOD LUCK
This means the amplifier self is not defect. But one of the switches or electronic switches or relays can be defect or dirty.
Try switching from and to direct source several times, to see if the switch can be engaged. If not, you need skills and tools to repair it yourself. Let alone ow to get to the spare parts you need.
Perhaps a repair centre can help? (will cost though)