The AC adapter converts high 100 to 240 Volts AC, from your home or business; into 19 Volts DC. (19VDC)
Looking at the AC adapter example above, the plug end that plugs into the laptop; has two connections;
1) The Center Hole is the Positive connection. 2) The outside cylindrical metal shell is the Negative connection.
Using a multimeter to check; Set the Function knob to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line. If there is more than one DC Voltage scale, set the Function knob to the 0-50 Volt DC scale. (0 to 50 Volt)
The Positive (Red) probe lead goes to the Center Hole. The Negative (Black) probe lead goes to the cylindrical metal shell. You should be reading 19 Volts (DC)
Have an assistant gently wiggle the cable FROM AC adapter TO laptop. Also have the assistant gently wiggle the power cable FROM surge protector TO AC adapter. Fluctuation in reading on multimeter; indicates a broken wire, in one of those cables.
Replace AC adapter if so. Not 19 Volt reading? Replace AC adapter.
[An economical multimeter can be purchased, for as little as $5 to $12. An auto parts store is but one place to puchase one. I have seen them on checkout aisle racks, in major discount stores.
I can guide you step by step with it, if you post the manufacturer name, and model number of the multimeter. Skittish about measuring the voltage? Worried about shock? I understand. However, I wish you to know that two D cell flashlight batteries, store 3 Volts DC. You will be measuring for 19 Volts DC.
Or take the AC adapter to the nearest small computer shop. The resident tech should only charge a couple of bucks, to test it for you]
AC adapter checks out? Then the diagnosis goes on. (Or you may wish to skip to the next step, and perform it first)
DC Power Jack: The DC Power Jack is the jack on the laptop, that the AC adapter plugs into.
Looking at the photo of the motherboard, you are looking at a Bottom view. The Processor, and Ram Memory are on the Bottom of the motherboard.
There are two silvery looking ports, on the BOTTOM/Left corner. The one all the way to the Left, is the Ethernet port. Next to it on the right; is the DC Power Jack.
Great! Can't find an exact listing for an Everex NM3500w DC Power Jack. However the above example mounts the same. The connecting prongs (pins) on bottom, may be in a different pattern, though.
Click on the photo to enlarge. This shows a bottom view of the jack. The rounded tipped prongs go through holes in the motherboard, and are soldered on the opposite side.
The prong all the way in the back of the jack, left side; goes to the Center Pin. The Center Pin is the Positive connection. The prong coming up from it in the middle, is for the Negative connection. It goes to the contact/s surrounding the inner hole, in the jack. (Inner hole around the Center Pin)
Battery removed, AC adapter removed; see if you can gently move the Center Pin, using an eraser on the end of a No.2 pencil.
ANY perceptible movement means the DC Power Jack needs to be replaced. If it seems the entire jack itself moves, problem may just be a cracked solder joint, or joints. Or may be a bad power jack.
A cracked solder joint will make an intermittent contact, or No contact at all; of DC Power Jack TO motherboard. Battery will not receive power, laptop will not turn on.
Power On LED indicator is on? Means nothing really. Uses way less than 1 Watt of power to light that LED. (Light Emitting Diode) A cracked solder joint could allow that much power, but not enough to turn the Processor on.
DC Power Jack seems fine, from this simple cursory test? You really have to disassemble the laptop, remove the motherboard, and check; to be sure.
See if by gently wiggling the Body of the DC Power Jack, if there is any perceptible movement. Use a bright light, and magnifying glass; to carefully scrutinize for a cracked solder joint.
AC adapter checks out? DC Power Jack checks out? Next in line are the Power MOSFET's. Now we are talking board level component replacement; (SMD's), Or motherboard replacement.
!O_O! Using the HP Pavilion dv6000 series, and Pavilion dv9000 series of Notebook PC's; for info about Power MOSFET's in the charging/power section, of the laptop's motherboard. (DC to DC Circuit),
Cost exceeds repairing laptop feasibly, and you need to retain the information on the Harddrive? Suggest removing harddrive, and installing in an economical external enclosure.
The harddrive resides in a Harddrive Caddy. A sheet metal enclosure. Then both are installed in the laptop. The sheet metal Harddrive Caddy is removed, so the Harddrive can be installed in the external enclosure.
Don't know what technology the Harddrive uses. Do not know if it is an IDE (PATA) unit, or a SATA unit. DO KNOW that it is a laptop harddrive, and will be 2.5 inches across in Width.
(2 and 1/2 Inches)
Once the Harddrive is removed, you can look the model number up on the internet, and see if it is an IDE, or SATA unit.
[IDE is referred to as PATA also. Parallel ATA. SATA is Serial ATA,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_ATA
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA ]
You can also post back here with the Harddrive's model number, and I can find the information out for you.
Reviews I found on the 'net were few, and lacking. One's for sale on places like Ebay, give sketchy information on what the laptop even looks like. However I believe I can guide in disassembling, if you wish.
For additional questions please post in a Comment. Regards, joecoolvette
Answers & Comments
1) Unplug AC adapter (Charger) from surge protector strip. Unplug AC adapter from laptop. Plug AC adapter back into power, then plug back into laptop.
No?
Then the AC adapter needs to be checked.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-ADAPTER-CHARGER-Everex-Stepnote-NM3500W-NM3900W-bfj-/390447149498?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item5ae876b1ba
The AC adapter converts high 100 to 240 Volts AC, from your home or business; into 19 Volts DC. (19VDC)
Looking at the AC adapter example above, the plug end that plugs into the laptop; has two connections;
1) The Center Hole is the Positive connection.
2) The outside cylindrical metal shell is the Negative connection.
Using a multimeter to check;
Set the Function knob to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line.
If there is more than one DC Voltage scale, set the Function knob to the 0-50 Volt DC scale. (0 to 50 Volt)
The Positive (Red) probe lead goes to the Center Hole.
The Negative (Black) probe lead goes to the cylindrical metal shell.
You should be reading 19 Volts (DC)
Have an assistant gently wiggle the cable FROM AC adapter TO laptop.
Also have the assistant gently wiggle the power cable FROM surge protector TO AC adapter.
Fluctuation in reading on multimeter; indicates a broken wire, in one of those cables.
Replace AC adapter if so.
Not 19 Volt reading? Replace AC adapter.
[An economical multimeter can be purchased, for as little as $5 to $12. An auto parts store is but one place to puchase one. I have seen them on checkout aisle racks, in major discount stores.
I can guide you step by step with it, if you post the manufacturer name, and model number of the multimeter.
Skittish about measuring the voltage? Worried about shock?
I understand. However, I wish you to know that two D cell flashlight batteries, store 3 Volts DC. You will be measuring for 19 Volts DC.
Or take the AC adapter to the nearest small computer shop. The resident tech should only charge a couple of bucks, to test it for you]
AC adapter checks out?
Then the diagnosis goes on.
(Or you may wish to skip to the next step, and perform it first)
DC Power Jack:
The DC Power Jack is the jack on the laptop, that the AC adapter plugs into.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Everex-StepNote-NM3500W-Motherboard-WORKING-/230663580965?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b49eed25
Looking at the photo of the motherboard, you are looking at a Bottom view. The Processor, and Ram Memory are on the Bottom of the motherboard.
There are two silvery looking ports, on the BOTTOM/Left corner.
The one all the way to the Left, is the Ethernet port.
Next to it on the right; is the DC Power Jack.
Another look at the jack not installed;
http://powerjack.us/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=105&products_id=13456
Great! Can't find an exact listing for an Everex NM3500w DC Power Jack.
However the above example mounts the same. The connecting prongs (pins) on bottom, may be in a different pattern, though.
Click on the photo to enlarge.
This shows a bottom view of the jack. The rounded tipped prongs go through holes in the motherboard, and are soldered on the opposite side.
The prong all the way in the back of the jack, left side; goes to the Center Pin. The Center Pin is the Positive connection.
The prong coming up from it in the middle, is for the Negative connection. It goes to the contact/s surrounding the inner hole, in the jack. (Inner hole around the Center Pin)
Battery removed, AC adapter removed; see if you can gently move the Center Pin, using an eraser on the end of a No.2 pencil.
ANY perceptible movement means the DC Power Jack needs to be replaced.
If it seems the entire jack itself moves, problem may just be a cracked solder joint, or joints. Or may be a bad power jack.
A cracked solder joint will make an intermittent contact, or No contact at all; of DC Power Jack TO motherboard.
Battery will not receive power, laptop will not turn on.
Power On LED indicator is on? Means nothing really. Uses way less than 1 Watt of power to light that LED. (Light Emitting Diode)
A cracked solder joint could allow that much power, but not enough to turn the Processor on.
DC Power Jack seems fine, from this simple cursory test?
You really have to disassemble the laptop, remove the motherboard, and check; to be sure.
See if by gently wiggling the Body of the DC Power Jack, if there is any perceptible movement.
Use a bright light, and magnifying glass; to carefully scrutinize for a cracked solder joint.
AC adapter checks out? DC Power Jack checks out? Next in line are the Power MOSFET's.
Now we are talking board level component replacement; (SMD's), Or motherboard replacement.
!O_O!
Using the HP Pavilion dv6000 series, and Pavilion dv9000 series of Notebook PC's; for info about Power MOSFET's in the charging/power section, of the laptop's motherboard. (DC to DC Circuit),
http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04/important-parts-on-dv6000-and-dv9000.html
Cost exceeds repairing laptop feasibly, and you need to retain the information on the Harddrive?
Suggest removing harddrive, and installing in an economical external enclosure.
The harddrive resides in a Harddrive Caddy. A sheet metal enclosure. Then both are installed in the laptop. The sheet metal Harddrive Caddy is removed, so the Harddrive can be installed in the external enclosure.
Don't know what technology the Harddrive uses.
Do not know if it is an IDE (PATA) unit, or a SATA unit.
DO KNOW that it is a laptop harddrive, and will be 2.5 inches across in Width.
(2 and 1/2 Inches)
Once the Harddrive is removed, you can look the model number up on the internet, and see if it is an IDE, or SATA unit.
[IDE is referred to as PATA also. Parallel ATA.
SATA is Serial ATA,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_ATA
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA ]
You can also post back here with the Harddrive's model number, and I can find the information out for you.
IDE (PATA) example;
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1086960&CatId=2782
(Scroll down)
SATA example,
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5601768&CatId=2783
Scroll down)
Reviews I found on the 'net were few, and lacking. One's for sale on places like Ebay, give sketchy information on what the laptop even looks like.
However I believe I can guide in disassembling, if you wish.
For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette