The W stands for the arrangement of the cylinders. While a V engine has 2 banks (rows of cylinders), a W engine has 4. It's like having 2 V engines combined. A W12 engine would have 4 banks of 3 cylinders, a W16 engine would have 4 banks of 4 cylinders, etc. The advantage of a W engine is you can have a lot of cylinders, but the engine is very compact. However, they seem to be prone to overheating, and designing an oiling system for them is extremely complicated.Suggestions upgrade the synthetic oil to a higher temperature type or summer blend thicker to cut the oil break down and lower the operating temperature. Best of luck these are great Cars engines need better oilers
The problem is that the engine is not getting sufficient coolant. Either coolant gets blockage or clogged up some where. In order to find out,
1-Take off the thermal stat, 2- Reconnect the hose. 3-Turn on the engine. 4- Feel the upper hose to see if water flowing through the hose by squeezing it lightly. If the flow is not felt except to vibration of the engine, then A- Water pump is not functioning. B- Radiator get clogged up
Some people gets both A and B and that is not uncommon.
The coolant is not circulating inside the engine, so heat could not be disipiated and carried to exchange with the atmosphere at the radiator then the engine is overheated. The engine gets enough air flow assistance helping to cool down the engine on the flat road, but not as much as on the uphill.
I know squat about bentlys...I think I stood next to one once, but I do know engines. I would definitely check the ignition timing and even if it is correct, advance it about four degrees and try it out. If engine is retarded, it will overheat quickly regardless of how good the cooling system is!!! Good Luck!!
I didn't mention a vacuum line in my answer, but since I cannot read the other persons post, I can guess that he may have been referring to a vacuum line that may go from the intake to the distributor???( only a guess). In my answer I should have clarified that in advancing, I mean to advance 4degrees more than factory unless you find that the timing is retarded and not at factory spec.
I didn't mention a vacuum line in my answer, but since I cannot read the other persons post, I can guess that he may have been referring to a vacuum line that may go from the intake to the distributor???( only a guess). In my answer I should have clarified that in advancing, I mean to advance 4degrees more than factory unless you find that the timing is retarded and not at factory spec.
OK no dist! but you need to think past that. check anything that triggers the ignition...such as if crank sensor gets its "trigger" from the front damper, if the damper moves on the hub, it essentially will ****** spark. No matter how it's done, something is always used to alter timing in order to make engine work under load...Anyhow, I'm gone...good luck with it.
OK no dist! but you need to think past that. check anything that triggers the ignition...such as if crank sensor gets its "trigger" from the front damper, if the damper moves on the hub, it essentially will ****** spark. No matter how it's done, something is always used to alter timing in order to make engine work under load...Anyhow, I'm gone...good luck with it.
The vacuum line should be replaced. I would add more coolant, it may just be low. If that doesnt work maybe the water pump is going, but the water pump makes the car overheat at idle a lot and while driving too. I'd test for head gasket leak as well.... Another thing to check for is whether the coolant is bubbling in the reservoir after the engine is fully warm. This would indicate a head gasket leak (air getting sucked into engine around the failed head gasket). The thermo-switch for fan which is located on the radiator (upper right front corner) controls the fan. The high speed fan (stage II) should come on when the coolant temp. reaches 210-212F and go off when it cools down to 196-206F
Check and see if there is excessive corrosion on the electrical contacts of the thermo-switch or harness connector at the switch. This might be the problem, or the switch might just need to be replaced. its very likely ur head gasket leaks... good luck and have a nice day
The "no coolant" in the surge or over flow tank concerns me. As the engine heats up, the coolant expands, radiator pressure rises and excess coolant is stored in the surge or overflow coolant tank. As the engine cools down, coolant contracts and is drawn from the surge or overflow tank back into the radiator.
Has the service engine soon light come on in the past or recently?
I would start with the basics, first make certain the coolant is at the proper level in the surge or over flow tank when the engine is cold. Remove the cap and top off the overflow tank to the designated indicator line on the tank, do not over fill.
Second, make certain the radiator cap is secured properly and have the radiator cap tested to insure it is holding pressure ( typically rated at 15lbs). If the system is not holding pressure the coolant will begin to boil as the engine is loaded as in hard acceleration or powering up and incline. The coolant in a properly sealed and pressurized system should be able to withstand temperatures of 246 deg F without boiling over.
Third, is the engine actually over heating. Have a "mechanical" gauge installed temporarily to verify the coolant sending unit or instrument panel gauge are not faulty.
I would verify all three before proceeding and replacing unnecessary engine or cooling system components.
I was just wonder what was the incline of the hill. What is the distance as well your climbing, i was also thing of the back pressure on the termostat causing it not to open as you have no coolent in the resovar.
1. Check thermostat back pressure 2. if that is it change the thermostate it may not be opening causing it to overheat at certain inclinations.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edwy_1a56970cf1ea4620
If you use to be able to do this same hill with no problem then I would be looking at a coolant restriction somewhere, Its cheap enough to go get a block test to eliminate if you have a head gasket issue which could cause your symptoms. Then I would make sure the system is bleed correctly. You may have to remove the water pump and inspect the pump side for defects. The reason you want to do this is the fan blades can fall apart and clog the system.. If the thermostat has not been replaced I would replace this. Even new replacements are know to be bad right away, If all this fails then you may have restricted radiator..
I have a question. Do you have any after market parts added to front of car? Ex: bra. This will cause lower air flow, which will cause cooling problems. Also make sure radiator is not clogged up with bugs, if so wash. If not I suggest changing the thermistat to a lower temp one, this will allow coolant to circulate sooner. Do not use water it evaporates, use antifreeze.
Answers & Comments
The W stands for the arrangement of the cylinders. While a V engine has 2 banks (rows of cylinders), a W engine has 4. It's like having 2 V engines combined. A W12 engine would have 4 banks of 3 cylinders, a W16 engine would have 4 banks of 4 cylinders, etc. The advantage of a W engine is you can have a lot of cylinders, but the engine is very compact. However, they seem to be prone to overheating, and designing an oiling system for them is extremely complicated.Suggestions upgrade the synthetic oil to a higher temperature type or summer blend thicker to cut the oil break down and lower the operating temperature. Best of luck these are great Cars engines need better oilers
The problem is that the engine is not getting sufficient coolant. Either coolant gets blockage or clogged up some where. In order to find out,
1-Take off the thermal stat,
2- Reconnect the hose.
3-Turn on the engine.
4- Feel the upper hose to see if water flowing through the hose by squeezing it lightly. If the flow is not felt except to vibration of the engine, then
A- Water pump is not functioning.
B- Radiator get clogged up
Some people gets both A and B and that is not uncommon.
The coolant is not circulating inside the engine, so heat could not be disipiated and carried to exchange with the atmosphere at the radiator then the engine is overheated. The engine gets enough air flow assistance helping to cool down the engine on the flat road, but not as much as on the uphill.
Good luck in finding.
I know squat about bentlys...I think I stood next to one once, but I do know engines. I would definitely check the ignition timing and even if it is correct, advance it about four degrees and try it out. If engine is retarded, it will overheat quickly regardless of how good the cooling system is!!!
Good Luck!!
I didn't mention a vacuum line in my answer, but since I cannot read the other persons post, I can guess that he may have been referring to a vacuum line that may go from the intake to the distributor???( only a guess). In my answer I should have clarified that in advancing, I mean to advance 4degrees more than factory unless you find that the timing is retarded and not at factory spec.
OK no dist! but you need to think past that. check anything that triggers the ignition...such as if crank sensor gets its "trigger" from the front damper, if the damper moves on the hub, it essentially will ****** spark. No matter how it's done, something is always used to alter timing in order to make engine work under load...Anyhow, I'm gone...good luck with it.
The vacuum line should be replaced. I would add more coolant, it may just be low. If that doesnt work maybe the water pump is going, but the water pump makes the car overheat at idle a lot and while driving too. I'd test for head gasket leak as well.... Another thing to check for is whether the coolant is bubbling in the reservoir after the engine is fully warm. This would indicate a head gasket leak (air getting sucked into engine around the failed head gasket).
The thermo-switch for fan which is located on the radiator (upper right front corner) controls the fan. The high speed fan (stage II) should come on when the coolant temp. reaches 210-212F and go off when it cools down to 196-206F
Check and see if there is excessive corrosion on the electrical contacts of the thermo-switch or harness connector at the switch. This might be the problem, or the switch might just need to be replaced.
its very likely ur head gasket leaks...
good luck and have a nice day
The "no coolant" in the surge or over flow tank concerns me. As the engine heats up, the coolant expands, radiator pressure rises and excess coolant is stored in the surge or overflow coolant tank. As the engine cools down, coolant contracts and is drawn from the surge or overflow tank back into the radiator.
Has the service engine soon light come on in the past or recently?
I would start with the basics, first make certain the coolant is at the proper level in the surge or over flow tank when the engine is cold. Remove the cap and top off the overflow tank to the designated indicator line on the tank, do not over fill.
Second, make certain the radiator cap is secured properly and have the radiator cap tested to insure it is holding pressure ( typically rated at 15lbs). If the system is not holding pressure the coolant will begin to boil as the engine is loaded as in hard acceleration or powering up and incline. The coolant in a properly sealed and pressurized system should be able to withstand temperatures of 246 deg F without boiling over.
Third, is the engine actually over heating. Have a "mechanical" gauge installed temporarily to verify the coolant sending unit or instrument panel gauge are not faulty.
I would verify all three before proceeding and replacing unnecessary engine or cooling system components.
Verify all and let me know.
Regards,
I was just wonder what was the incline of the hill. What is the distance as well your climbing, i was also thing of the back pressure on the termostat causing it not to open as you have no coolent in the resovar.
1. Check thermostat back pressure
2. if that is it change the thermostate it may not be opening causing it to overheat at certain inclinations.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edwy_1a56970cf1ea4620
If you use to be able to do this same hill with no problem then I would be looking at a coolant restriction somewhere, Its cheap enough to go get a block test to eliminate if you have a head gasket issue which could cause your symptoms. Then I would make sure the system is bleed correctly. You may have to remove the water pump and inspect the pump side for defects. The reason you want to do this is the fan blades can fall apart and clog the system.. If the thermostat has not been replaced I would replace this. Even new replacements are know to be bad right away, If all this fails then you may have restricted radiator..
I have a question. Do you have any after market parts added to front of car? Ex: bra. This will cause lower air flow, which will cause cooling problems. Also make sure radiator is not clogged up with bugs, if so wash. If not I suggest changing the thermistat to a lower temp one, this will allow coolant to circulate sooner. Do not use water it evaporates, use antifreeze.
You may try checking the cylinderhead gaskets, it overheats if it has pressure coming out. hope this helps