with these suggestions you'll have to be very careful, as I'm going to ask you to check around the vicinity of the timing cover....
Take a thin length of plastic or rubber tubing and then, with the engine running, place one end against your ear and then, with the other, move it to the various places on the alternator....(above the front bearing and then the rear).....The steering pump...same routine....the AC compressor....engaged and then disengaged with you listening....
If the noise does not get loader, move to the timing cover and first go to the position adjacent to the cams.....then lower down, to where the idlers and the tensioner are....If you're not very familiar with the engine lay out, just move the pipe, following a logical sequence until you find the noise that's causing the problem.....
If it's on any of the 'bolt on' units, with the exception of the AC compressor, you'll be able to tackle the problem by taking the faulty unit off and then stripping it down, to attend the dry bearing.....I think that's what the problem is.... If you don't feel confident enough to do the stripping yourself....alternators can be tricky and so can steering pumps....Air Conditioning compressors are charged, so unless you know that part of the job well, don't try to remove it without expert help....
If the noise is coming from the inside of the timing cover, mark with tipex (correcting fluid) or a piece of chalk, the position where it's loudest, and then you'll need to open it....You'll have to remove the battery connection, but before you do, make sure that you don't have an anti theft device which will lose it's code....If you do, make sure that there's a workshop close by, where they can reset it for you....You'll need to do that, if the problem is on the alternator and it needs removing....
Once you've swung away the units that obstruct the work, you can now begin removing the timing cover....Once off, look at your mark and check to see what's closest to it....It will probably be an idler or the tensioner bearing.....
Now comes the tricky part.....Set the engine to TDC and then don't turn it......Take special note of the timing marks on the crank shaft and the camshafts. These must be aligned to pointers which you may have a problem finding if you're not aware of them before you proceed....Check to see if there are any other shafts which are marked and mark all of them with the tipex (these should be painted on and durable.... NOT chalk)....
The difficult part of removing the timing belt, is putting it back on, so that all the marks align once again....
Loosen off the tensioner locking devise and then push the unit away from the belt, so that the belt becomes loose and can be gently removed.....TIMING BELTS MUST NEVER BE FOLDED OR CRIMPED... Once the belt is off, you'll find it easy to discover the bearing that's making the noise.....
That done, you'll need to replace it.....A new belt would be best. Keep in mind that if the bearing should seize, it may cause the timing belt to snap.....that could be very costly.....
Fit the new belt without moving any of the shafts, which must be set to their respective marks, matched to the relevant pointers...
Start with the crank shaft and fit upwards. keep it as tight as possible, leaving the slack to be taken up by the tensioner bearing, which is gently released to come under the spring tension.....The best way that I know of getting the correct tension, if you don't have a gauge.....Fit the crank shaft pulley bolt and with the tensioner still loose, exert enough pressure to tighten the belt but not so much as to rotate the engine. A this ask a friend to tighten the lock for the tensioner.....It should be tight without being able to vibrate....You should be able to feel that it's tight, but not stretched at all.....Once it's locked, rotate the engine twice to check the mark settings....Refit everything else and you're ready to go.....Don't forget to refill the coolant....
Hope this is a help to you
Best regards Johngee10 Hi discopete, with these suggestions you'll have to be very careful, as I'm going to ask you to check around the vicinity of the timing cover....
Take a thin length of plastic or rubber tubing and then, with the engine running, place one end against your ear and then, with the other, move it to the various places on the alternator....(above the front bearing and then the rear).....The steering pump...same routine....the AC compressor....engaged and then disengaged with you listening....
If the noise does not get loader, move to the timing cover and first go to the position adjacent to the cams.....then lower down, to where the idlers and the tensioner are....If you're not very familiar with the engine lay out, just move the pipe, following a logical sequence until you find the noise that's causing the problem.....
If it's on any of the 'bolt on' units, with the exception of the AC compressor, you'll be able to tackle the problem by taking the faulty unit off and then stripping it down, to attend the dry bearing.....I think that's what the problem is.... If you don't feel confident enough to do the stripping yourself....alternators can be tricky and so can steering pumps....Air Conditioning compressors are charged, so unless you know that part of the job well, don't try to remove it without expert help....
If the noise is coming from the inside of the timing cover, mark with tipex (correcting fluid) or a piece of chalk, the position where it's loudest, and then you'll need to open it....You'll have to remove the battery connection, but before you do, make sure that you don't have an anti theft device which will lose it's code....If you do, make sure that there's a workshop close by, where they can reset it for you....You'll need to do that, if the problem is on the alternator and it needs removing....
Once you've swung away the units that obstruct the work, you can now begin removing the timing cover....Once off, look at your mark and check to see what's closest to it....It will probably be an idler or the tensioner bearing.....
Now comes the tricky part.....Set the engine to TDC and then don't turn it......Take special note of the timing marks on the crank shaft and the camshafts. These must be aligned to pointers which you may have a problem finding if you're not aware of them before you proceed....Check to see if there are any other shafts which are marked and mark all of them with the tipex (these should be painted on and durable.... NOT chalk)....
The difficult part of removing the timing belt, is putting it back on, so that all the marks align once again....
Loosen off the tensioner locking devise and then push the unit away from the belt, so that the belt becomes loose and can be gently removed.....TIMING BELTS MUST NEVER BE FOLDED OR CRIMPED... Once the belt is off, you'll find it easy to discover the bearing that's making the noise.....
That done, you'll need to replace it.....A new belt would be best. Keep in mind that if the bearing should seize, it may cause the timing belt to snap.....that could be very costly.....
Fit the new belt without moving any of the shafts, which must be set to their respective marks, matched to the relevant pointers...
Start with the crank shaft and fit upwards. keep it as tight as possible, leaving the slack to be taken up by the tensioner bearing, which is gently released to come under the spring tension.....The best way that I know of getting the correct tension, if you don't have a gauge.....Fit the crank shaft pulley bolt and with the tensioner still loose, exert enough pressure to tighten the belt but not so much as to rotate the engine. A this ask a friend to tighten the lock for the tensioner.....It should be tight without being able to vibrate....You should be able to feel that it's tight, but not stretched at all.....Once it's locked, rotate the engine twice to check the mark settings....Refit everything else and you're ready to go.....Don't forget to refill the coolant....
Answers & Comments
Hi discopete,
As you haven't yet replied, please read thru what I've already written to you. Maybe you'll find the answer in what I've written.
All the best Johngee10
Hi discopete,
with these suggestions you'll have to be very careful, as I'm going to ask you to check around the vicinity of the timing cover....
Take a thin length of plastic or rubber tubing and then, with the engine running, place one end against your ear and then, with the other, move it to the various places on the alternator....(above the front bearing and then the rear).....The steering pump...same routine....the AC compressor....engaged and then disengaged with you listening....
If the noise does not get loader, move to the timing cover and first go to the position adjacent to the cams.....then lower down, to where the idlers and the tensioner are....If you're not very familiar with the engine lay out, just move the pipe, following a logical sequence until you find the noise that's causing the problem.....
If it's on any of the 'bolt on' units, with the exception of the AC compressor, you'll be able to tackle the problem by taking the faulty unit off and then stripping it down, to attend the dry bearing.....I think that's what the problem is.... If you don't feel confident enough to do the stripping yourself....alternators can be tricky and so can steering pumps....Air Conditioning compressors are charged, so unless you know that part of the job well, don't try to remove it without expert help....
If the noise is coming from the inside of the timing cover, mark with tipex (correcting fluid) or a piece of chalk, the position where it's loudest, and then you'll need to open it....You'll have to remove the battery connection, but before you do, make sure that you don't have an anti theft device which will lose it's code....If you do, make sure that there's a workshop close by, where they can reset it for you....You'll need to do that, if the problem is on the alternator and it needs removing....
Once you've swung away the units that obstruct the work, you can now begin removing the timing cover....Once off, look at your mark and check to see what's closest to it....It will probably be an idler or the tensioner bearing.....
Now comes the tricky part.....Set the engine to TDC and then don't turn it......Take special note of the timing marks on the crank shaft and the camshafts. These must be aligned to pointers which you may have a problem finding if you're not aware of them before you proceed....Check to see if there are any other shafts which are marked and mark all of them with the tipex (these should be painted on and durable.... NOT chalk)....
The difficult part of removing the timing belt, is putting it back on, so that all the marks align once again....
Loosen off the tensioner locking devise and then push the unit away from the belt, so that the belt becomes loose and can be gently removed.....TIMING BELTS MUST NEVER BE FOLDED OR CRIMPED... Once the belt is off, you'll find it easy to discover the bearing that's making the noise.....
That done, you'll need to replace it.....A new belt would be best. Keep in mind that if the bearing should seize, it may cause the timing belt to snap.....that could be very costly.....
Fit the new belt without moving any of the shafts, which must be set to their respective marks, matched to the relevant pointers...
Start with the crank shaft and fit upwards. keep it as tight as possible, leaving the slack to be taken up by the tensioner bearing, which is gently released to come under the spring tension.....The best way that I know of getting the correct tension, if you don't have a gauge.....Fit the crank shaft pulley bolt and with the tensioner still loose, exert enough pressure to tighten the belt but not so much as to rotate the engine. A this ask a friend to tighten the lock for the tensioner.....It should be tight without being able to vibrate....You should be able to feel that it's tight, but not stretched at all.....Once it's locked, rotate the engine twice to check the mark settings....Refit everything else and you're ready to go.....Don't forget to refill the coolant....
Hope this is a help to you
Best regards Johngee10