Your defrost circuit ... should (about twice each day) gently warm up.. and remove the frost to an evaporation tray at the bottom of your FREEZER (refrigerator?)...
In general... there are only three elements to the defrost circuit: - 1st failure is usually the "timer" (in your case (other cases it is being replaced by the power control board (do remove power: line voltages present). - 2nd failure (inside ... usually atop the evaporator) is the "DEFROST THERMOSTAT" (designed the keep the heating element from getting much hotter than 55 degrees Fahrenheit, ("failing" = open.. prevents the heater element from being energized at all). - 3rd the heating element... itself goes open (usually below the evaporator (caution: line voltages on 2nd & 3rd)).
Anytime you don't feel you've got this surrounded just comment me back... I'll be around.
In general... there are only three elements to the defrost circuit: 1st failure is usually the "timer" (in your case (other cases it is being replaced by the power control board. 2nd failure (inside ... usually atop the evaporator) is the "DEFROST THERMOSTAT" (designed the keep the heating element from getting much hotter than 55 degrees Fahrenheit, ("failing" = open.. prevents the heater element from being energized at all). 3rd the heating element... itself goes open (usually below the evaporator (caution: line voltages on 2 & 3)).
Anytime you don't feel you've got this surrounded just comment me back... I'll be around.In general... there are only three elements to the defrost circuit: 1st failure is usually the "timer" (in your case (other cases it is being replaced by the power control board. 2nd failure (inside ... usually atop the evaporator) is the "DEFROST THERMOSTAT" (designed the keep the heating element from getting much hotter than 55 degrees Fahrenheit, ("failing" = open.. prevents the heater element from being energized at all). 3rd the heating element... itself goes open (usually below the evaporator (caution: line voltages on 2 & 3)). Anytime you don't feel you've got this surrounded just comment me back... I'll be around.
Answers & Comments
Your defrost circuit ... should (about twice each day) gently warm up.. and remove the frost to an evaporation tray at the bottom of your FREEZER (refrigerator?)...
Regardless of the design...
THERE are only two reasons for excessive FROST.
- massive air intrusion (check seals & gaskets)
- defective defrost circuit (check defrost timer/controller)...
EZ trouble to fix...
Post comment reply: 7/3/2016...
In general... there are only three elements to the defrost circuit:
- 1st failure is usually the "timer" (in your case (other cases it is being replaced by the power control board (do remove power: line voltages present).
- 2nd failure (inside ... usually atop the evaporator) is the "DEFROST THERMOSTAT" (designed the keep the heating element from getting much hotter than 55 degrees Fahrenheit, ("failing" = open.. prevents the heater element from being energized at all).
- 3rd the heating element... itself goes open (usually below the evaporator (caution: line voltages on 2nd & 3rd)).
Anytime you don't feel you've got this surrounded just comment me back... I'll be around.
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Thanks deton8 von Splosion
In general... there are only three elements to the defrost circuit:
1st failure is usually the "timer" (in your case (other cases it is being replaced by the power control board. 2nd failure (inside ... usually atop the evaporator) is the "DEFROST THERMOSTAT" (designed the keep the heating element from getting much hotter than 55 degrees Fahrenheit, ("failing" = open.. prevents the heater element from being energized at all). 3rd the heating element... itself goes open (usually below the evaporator (caution: line voltages on 2 & 3)).
Anytime you don't feel you've got this surrounded just comment me back... I'll be around.