Oooo hmmm . Wow .... John could be many things , how old is this Briggs ? Well first thing i would do us remove spark plug . This takes any compression off that adds to the load and for SAFTEY reasons in the following step. Try to roll the crank shaft from the blade , it is directly bolted to output crankshaft and will give you som leverage . USE MEDIUM HEAVY GLOVES Flip mower on its side opposite of the oil filler plug . Now looking at the blade you want to rotate counter clockwise (i beleive ) or roll the same way leading sharp edge is facing . You may have to rock the blade slightly back then forward . This should move the crank and rod ,piston once it moves it should be free enough to go only 1/2 full revolution , don't roll completely full revolution . The idea is to get the piston down . Usually when they seize piston is top dead center on either compression or exhaust stroke . That doesn't matter . Now if you have it this far you should be able to move fairly easily but slowly in same direction on the second half as piston us coming up , notice if it is gaining restriction and becomes harder and then seizes again . If so rod wrist pin is may be at falt . If it continues through travel , repeat in same direction over and over . . If all is fine , flip mower back on wheels and THEN remove top pull cord housing to expose flywheel . Place the housing on the soft ground so it will dig in a little and pull back on pull cord . If does not pull your problem will be in the centrifical cam locks that engage out ward to turn flywheel . Easy Peasy fix . May be simply binded pull cord . Pull cord sometimes will jump sheave and get in between on the top of sheave and housing . Let us know what you find , I'm especially curious . use the comment box and I will get a notification that you commented ......... Later John ....... Thanks
Answers & Comments
Oooo hmmm . Wow ....
John could be many things , how old is this Briggs ?
Well first thing i would do us remove spark plug . This takes any compression off that adds to the load and for SAFTEY reasons in the following step.
Try to roll the crank shaft from the blade , it is directly bolted to output crankshaft and will give you som leverage .
USE MEDIUM HEAVY GLOVES
Flip mower on its side opposite of the oil filler plug . Now looking at the blade you want to rotate counter clockwise (i beleive )
or roll the same way leading sharp edge is facing . You may have to rock the blade slightly back then forward . This should move the crank and rod ,piston once it moves it should be free enough to go only 1/2 full revolution , don't roll completely full revolution . The idea is to get the piston down . Usually when they seize piston is
top dead center on either compression or exhaust stroke . That doesn't matter . Now if you have it this far you should be able to move fairly easily but slowly in same direction on the second half as piston us coming up , notice if it is gaining restriction and becomes harder and then seizes again . If so rod wrist pin is may be at falt . If it continues through travel , repeat in same direction over and over . . If all is fine , flip mower back on wheels and THEN remove top pull cord housing to expose flywheel .
Place the housing on the soft ground so it will dig in a little and pull back on pull cord . If does not pull your problem will be in the centrifical cam locks that engage out ward to turn flywheel . Easy Peasy fix . May be simply binded pull cord . Pull cord sometimes will jump sheave and get in between on the top of sheave and housing .
Let us know what you find , I'm especially curious .
use the comment box and I will get a notification that you commented ......... Later John ....... Thanks