LCD monitors use a fluorescent backlight system. A 15" probably needs just one. These are sandwiched on the perimeter of the monitor (usually under some tape that holds the lamp, reflector and other parts together. You need to order by length and width and get ones for your monitor size. Separate the panel from the bezel. Remove the tape, and separate the reflector (make a note of how things are put together) then you have to Dremel (or use another rotary tool) to remove the plastic to get the backlight out. (They are often molded into the frame.) Some backlights are sold without the wires. In that case, desolder the wires from the old backlight and solder them to the new one. Then put in the new backlight and reassemble everything. (http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/default.aspx) but for an overview: http://www.inventgeek.com/Projects/BacklightFix/overview.aspx Then push the new backlights into place, reconnect the wires and close up the sandwich of tape and other parts around the screen. Then replace it in the bezel.
Sometimes the inverter will fail but since you see the image that is likely not the case. However, you should consider testing the backlight with the inverter before installing it. (Unplug the old backlight (similar to a molex connector) (or desolder the wires from the old backlight and resolder them to the new one, depending on your backlight replacement), connect to the inverter and plug in. If it lights, you are good to go. Inverters can be tested with a high end multimeter (that can read frequency) or an oscilloscope. They cause an induced current which changes sign around the unit. Depending on the age of the inverter this can be 60 Hz or 50kHz. Hold the multimeter probes a fraction of an inch apart about an inch above the inverter. If a multimeter reads zero or near zero, the inverter is bad or the multimeter can't resolve the frequency. If you see a value or 1., then the inverter is good.)
Answers & Comments
LCD monitors use a fluorescent backlight system. A 15" probably needs just one. These are sandwiched on the perimeter of the monitor (usually under some tape that holds the lamp, reflector and other parts together. You need to order by length and width and get ones for your monitor size. Separate the panel from the bezel. Remove the tape, and separate the reflector (make a note of how things are put together) then you have to Dremel (or use another rotary tool) to remove the plastic to get the backlight out. (They are often molded into the frame.) Some backlights are sold without the wires. In that case, desolder the wires from the old backlight and solder them to the new one. Then put in the new backlight and reassemble everything. (http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/default.aspx) but for an overview: http://www.inventgeek.com/Projects/BacklightFix/overview.aspx Then push the new backlights into place, reconnect the wires and close up the sandwich of tape and other parts around the screen. Then replace it in the bezel.
Sometimes the inverter will fail but since you see the image that is likely not the case. However, you should consider testing the backlight with the inverter before installing it. (Unplug the old backlight (similar to a molex connector) (or desolder the wires from the old backlight and resolder them to the new one, depending on your backlight replacement), connect to the inverter and plug in. If it lights, you are good to go. Inverters can be tested with a high end multimeter (that can read frequency) or an oscilloscope. They cause an induced current which changes sign around the unit. Depending on the age of the inverter this can be 60 Hz or 50kHz. Hold the multimeter probes a fraction of an inch apart about an inch above the inverter. If a multimeter reads zero or near zero, the inverter is bad or the multimeter can't resolve the frequency. If you see a value or 1., then the inverter is good.)
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells