VIzio VX32LHDTVTV10a has sound, but on power up there is no image (white screen). As it warms up the image slowly appears out of the muck. Has the appearance of solarization. Is there a fix?
I admire your "fix" question... well posed and great background information...
There are really only your two boards... guess wrong on one MARK IT AS A GOOD SPARE and give the other a try... it only money (and considerably less money than the ... time mileage and experimentation you'd get from a "PROFESSIONAL" ... (I'm just saying)
My two biggest cautions for every beginner tech (I've trained & managed serious professional third tier "support" teams)...
(before the advent of today's red light/green light methodology ((large scale... incredibly expensive LIVE commercial grade equipment... Your set is CONSUMER GRADE: be gentle))).
Of paramount importance is to put EVERY CABLE & screw exactly back from whence it came (take LOTS of PICTURES going in)... more importantly... and laughed off by some less than SERIOUS professionals... and...
For EVERY circuit you CARE ABOUT... (see below)
WEARING a VERY CHEAP anti-static wrist-band (Full knowledge of ESD (Electro-Static Discharge) precautions can be essentialized into knowing: the TINIEST static spark... you might not even feel can DESTROY Any/ALL SEMICONDUCTOR components... Yes... even those big hardy DIODES in the back of your CAR'S ALTERNATOR... must be properly handled and shipped in 'FARADAY' bags... and shipping materials.
Ordinary plastics & styrene are VOLTAGE GENERATORS... You might as well just drop your ELECTRONICS off at the SALVAGE YARD
EVERY great trouble shooter... all started at the beginning... 32 Inch set is nice - tidy... small... The only disadvantage is less screws (possible snap together edge trim... patience: be gentle).
Plenty of it is INDEED intuitive... Parts are inexpensive and DO NOT justify the risk of (and required tools & sophistication) perform HOT TROUBLE ANALYSIS (live... (yes... hazardous voltages are present inside the case)).
A TV that is ABLE to display "snow" is mostly OKAY...
Power board (multiple power supplies) are likely good... The extra time to actually pull down a signal can be attributable to the "MAIN" signal board... but could also be that associated section of the power board (albeit less likely)...
Regardless the cost of the boards can be sourced at shopjimmy.com, searspartsdirect.com and even amazon & eBay...
Absolutely get your OWN NUMBERS from YOUR-OWN cards (PCB = Printed Circuit Board)... Any boards depicted here are only to ILLUSTRATE EXAMPLE SOURCES.
Never force any connection together or apart... Many connectors have tension clips, hooks or even snap locks... Get out that magnifying glass (or better a bright light & jewelers loupe).
Good luck... and happy hunting...
(I'll be around... If you take good usable pictures BEFORE going in... ELSE... I'll be elusive as an honest politician).
Fault at its main digital board. Short circuited component/s at it. Contact any service technician; or the authorized service center. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ In most cases, the main board might have to be replaced. If so, a software [firmware] update too might be necessary. Before going further; try a hard reset first. If it does not help you, replace the main digital board. There are two methods to reset TVs. The first is simple to do; a Hard Reset. The other is somewhat skilled; is a Factory Reset (System Reset). To make it a hard reset, just unplug the TV from AC mains wall socket, and re-plug it back after 15 minutes or so. If you do this by overnight is better. This procedure will make it a hard reset. If you want to make it a system reset [Factory Reset]; you have to enter its service mode option, and select the factory reset option. If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here.
Answers & Comments
Hi Rick,
I admire your "fix" question...
well posed and great background information...
There are really only your two boards... guess wrong on one MARK IT AS A GOOD SPARE and give the other a try... it only money (and considerably less money than the ... time mileage and experimentation you'd get from a "PROFESSIONAL" ...
(I'm just saying)
My two biggest cautions for every beginner tech (I've trained & managed serious professional third tier "support" teams)...
(before the advent of today's red light/green light methodology
((large scale... incredibly expensive LIVE commercial grade equipment... Your set is CONSUMER GRADE: be gentle))).
Of paramount importance is to put EVERY CABLE & screw
exactly back from whence it came (take LOTS of PICTURES going in)... more importantly... and laughed off by some less than SERIOUS professionals... and...
For EVERY circuit you CARE ABOUT... (see below)
WEARING a VERY CHEAP anti-static wrist-band (Full knowledge of ESD (Electro-Static Discharge) precautions can be essentialized into knowing: the TINIEST static spark... you might not even feel can DESTROY Any/ALL SEMICONDUCTOR components... Yes... even those big hardy DIODES in the back of your CAR'S ALTERNATOR... must be properly handled and shipped in 'FARADAY' bags... and shipping materials.
Ordinary plastics & styrene are VOLTAGE GENERATORS...
You might as well just drop your ELECTRONICS off at the SALVAGE YARD
EVERY great trouble shooter... all started at the beginning...
32 Inch set is nice - tidy... small... The only disadvantage is less screws (possible snap together edge trim... patience: be gentle).
Plenty of it is INDEED intuitive... Parts are inexpensive and DO NOT justify the risk of (and required tools & sophistication) perform HOT TROUBLE ANALYSIS (live... (yes... hazardous voltages are present inside the case)).
A TV that is ABLE to display "snow" is mostly OKAY...
Power board (multiple power supplies) are likely good...
The extra time to actually pull down a signal can be attributable to the "MAIN" signal board... but could also be that associated
section of the power board (albeit less likely)...
Regardless the cost of the boards can be sourced at
shopjimmy.com, searspartsdirect.com and even amazon & eBay...
Absolutely get your OWN NUMBERS from YOUR-OWN cards (PCB = Printed Circuit Board)... Any boards depicted here are only to ILLUSTRATE EXAMPLE SOURCES.
Never force any connection together or apart... Many connectors have tension clips, hooks or even snap locks... Get out that magnifying glass (or better a bright light & jewelers loupe).
Good luck... and happy hunting...
(I'll be around... If you take good usable pictures BEFORE going in... ELSE... I'll be elusive as an honest politician).
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/VX32LHDTV10A-Vizio-Parts-LCD+TELEVISION-manual
TV Parts Universal TV Stands DLP Chips ShopJimmy
Vizio 32 L32HDTV10A 0500 0507 0180 LCD Power Supply Board Unit
Fault at its main digital board. Short circuited component/s at it. Contact any service technician; or the authorized service center. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
In most cases, the main board might have to be replaced. If so, a software [firmware] update too might be necessary.
Before going further; try a hard reset first. If it does not help you, replace the main digital board. There are two methods to reset TVs. The first is simple to do; a Hard Reset. The other is somewhat skilled; is a Factory Reset (System Reset). To make it a hard reset, just unplug the TV from AC mains wall socket, and re-plug it back after 15 minutes or so. If you do this by overnight is better. This procedure will make it a hard reset. If you want to make it a system reset [Factory Reset]; you have to enter its service mode option, and select the factory reset option. If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here.