With engine running and not.? front or rear wiper,????? toss dice, land on front......( 50/50 odds) it's a network now, no more old style, point to point one wire for every thing on car and a ton of copper to match. first test all fuses, then scan it. or it will get expensive fast guessing. the Switch bank brain under the wiper stalk sends what you did, on to the LIN bus network, The switch there does not actually drive lamps. its just a digital switch, (some are 3 level logic) The switches on some use a bank of internal resistors to tell the switch bank what you did.
this LIN alt="wiper issues only work on high but work very slow - acb4a86e-6ebf-49e6-b000-a843e7e1804e.jpg" />
here ill quote mil doctrine in this for 45 years. (complex systems we've used, way before cars had any of this! stuff!) we check for valid power supplies first. in this case the car battery weak. or low system voltage (12dc primary power) if only fails driving we check voltage running. (make sense?) OK, power is GOOD. (a voltmeter is the tool)
1: check all features on car, in the old days, they say turn all knobs, check all functions. still applies to 2016. for example is only high wiper speed (weak)working (as said) but what about the OTHER 6 modes.? and what about all other switches on the column, blinks(turns) HAZ , HL, park, horn, any of those fail too? do all lamps in the cluster work and gauges. 1a: does car drive perfectly at night (no rain sure)??? no other symtoms? 1b: starter sounds robust (not weak) 1c: radio work , nAV , all displays in car work ok>? no funny messages.?
2: check all fuse next? do the all, means test them, fuses that look blown ARE. fuse that look ok, can be cracked, we test them, off car ohms =0 good infinity bad, OR? on car test, 12v both sides key on = good. less bad. learn now, that some things must work that seem unrelated to the failure. (like the cluster )
NEXT! THE SCANNER, (it's not expensive) 3: scan it yet, not doing this is going to cost most car owners a big waste of cash.
eg: DTC errors. Diagnostic trouble codes. a: can-bus errors, b: lin-bus errors. c: comm errors of any kind.! d: CLuster, or TIPM , or ESC or switch bank or POD errors.
4: the wiper motor can be tested on a bench. using any 12vdc battery or power pack with enough amps. 15amp i recommend , min. no need to guess if a motor works or not it's just a DC brush motor. 2 speeds, 5: the switch can be bad, i'd say last possible if it looks undamaged.(but ?) the switch logic is posted above, 0ohms = closed. infinity = open. unplugged sure.
did you know modern jeeps even scan and show DTC for blown fuses. and even dead critical outputs. ? and more, some 100 errors, or more,
not scanning is the #1 reason for a thin wallet. see here 10,000+ times.
my answer, is , in conclusion it can be many things, ill avoid gue$$ing. QOD: one of the parts is $800 + programming. are you going to guess that?here ill quote mil doctrine in this for 45 years. (complex systems we've used, way before cars had any of this! stuff!) we check for valid power supplies first. in this case the car battery weak. or low system voltage (12dc primary power) if only fails driving we check voltage running. (make sense?) OK, power is GOOD. (a voltmeter is the tool) 1: check all features on car, in the old days, they say turn all knobs, check all functions. still applies to 2016. for example is only high wiper speed (weak)working (as said) but what about the OTHER 6 modes.? and what about all other switches on the column, blinks(turns) HAZ , HL, park, horn, any of those fail too? do all lamps in the cluster work and gauges. 1a: does car drive perfectly at night (no rain sure)??? no other symtoms? 1b: starter sounds robust (not weak) 1c: radio work , nAV , all displays in car work ok>? no funny messages.? 2: check all fuse next? do the all, means test them, fuses that look blown ARE. fuse that look ok, can be cracked, we test them, off car ohms =0 good infinity bad, OR? on car test, 12v both sides key on = good. less bad. learn now, that some things must work that seem unrelated to the failure. (like the cluster ) NEXT! THE SCANNER, (it's not expensive) 3: scan it yet, not doing this is going to cost most car owners a big waste of cash. eg: DTC errors. Diagnostic trouble codes. a: can-bus errors, b: lin-bus errors. c: comm errors of any kind.! d: CLuster, or TIPM , or ESC or switch bank or POD errors. 4: the wiper motor can be tested on a bench. using any 12vdc battery or power pack with enough amps. 15amp i recommend , min. no need to guess if a motor works or not it's just a DC brush motor. 2 speeds, 5: the switch can be bad, i'd say last possible if it looks undamaged.(but ?) the switch logic is posted above, 0ohms = closed. infinity = open. unplugged sure. did you know modern jeeps even scan and show DTC for blown fuses. and even dead critical outputs. ? and more, some 100 errors, or more, not scanning is the #1 reason for a thin wallet. see here 10,000+ times. my answer, is , in conclusion it can be many things, ill avoid gue$$ing. QOD: one of the parts is $800 + programming. are you going to guess that?
If the old motor did the same thing. It could the switch(turn signal). I have never replaced one for this. the module for wipers is built into the motor. I would go back to the grounds, and power. 12 volts at the wiper plug from the power and ground pins. Then check continuity of both wires. Over 5 Ohms. fix/replace that wire.
Answers & Comments
With engine running and not.?
front or rear wiper,?????
toss dice, land on front......( 50/50 odds)
it's a network now, no more old style, point to point one wire for every thing on car and a ton of copper to match.
first test all fuses, then scan it.
or it will get expensive fast guessing.
the Switch bank brain under the wiper stalk
sends what you did, on to the LIN bus network,
The switch there does not actually drive lamps.
its just a digital switch, (some are 3 level logic)
The switches on some use a bank of internal resistors to tell the switch bank what you did.
this LIN alt="wiper issues only work on high but work very slow - acb4a86e-6ebf-49e6-b000-a843e7e1804e.jpg" />
here ill quote mil doctrine in this for 45 years. (complex systems we've used, way before cars had any of this! stuff!)
we check for valid power supplies first.
in this case the car battery weak.
or low system voltage (12dc primary power)
if only fails driving we check voltage running. (make sense?)
OK, power is GOOD. (a voltmeter is the tool)
1: check all features on car, in the old days, they say turn all knobs, check all functions.
still applies to 2016.
for example is only high wiper speed (weak)working (as said)
but what about the OTHER 6 modes.?
and what about all other switches on the column, blinks(turns) HAZ , HL, park, horn, any of those fail too?
do all lamps in the cluster work and gauges.
1a: does car drive perfectly at night (no rain sure)??? no other symtoms?
1b: starter sounds robust (not weak)
1c: radio work , nAV , all displays in car work ok>? no funny messages.?
2: check all fuse next? do the all,
means test them,
fuses that look blown ARE.
fuse that look ok, can be cracked,
we test them, off car
ohms =0 good
infinity bad,
OR?
on car test, 12v both sides key on = good.
less bad.
learn now, that some things must work that seem unrelated to the failure. (like the cluster )
NEXT! THE SCANNER, (it's not expensive)
3: scan it yet, not doing this is going to cost most car owners a big waste of cash.
eg: DTC errors. Diagnostic trouble codes.
a: can-bus errors,
b: lin-bus errors.
c: comm errors of any kind.!
d: CLuster, or TIPM , or ESC or switch bank or POD errors.
4: the wiper motor can be tested on a bench.
using any 12vdc battery or power pack with enough amps. 15amp i recommend , min.
no need to guess if a motor works or not
it's just a DC brush motor. 2 speeds,
5: the switch can be bad, i'd say last possible if it looks undamaged.(but ?)
the switch logic is posted above,
0ohms = closed.
infinity = open.
unplugged sure.
did you know modern jeeps even scan and show
DTC for blown fuses.
and even dead critical outputs. ?
and more, some 100 errors, or more,
not scanning is the #1 reason for a thin wallet.
see here 10,000+ times.
my answer, is , in conclusion
it can be many things, ill avoid gue$$ing.
QOD:
one of the parts is $800 + programming.
are you going to guess that?
If the old motor did the same thing. It could the switch(turn signal). I have never replaced one for this. the module for wipers is built into the motor. I would go back to the grounds, and power. 12 volts at the wiper plug from the power and ground pins. Then check continuity of both wires. Over 5 Ohms. fix/replace that wire.
Yes it does. Thanks.
Is this applying to the new chryslers also.